Is Anyone Using Magnets to Mount Your Ships?

[Lincolnlog]

I was considering using magnets to mount my ships. So, I went to a reputable dealer and started searching. I would do a magnet to magnet mounting. The problem I'm running into, is what grade of magnet do I need to ensure my ships aren't going to fall off the stands?

Anyone have any experience here?

Thanks

Bob

 

[Greg Smith]

Several of us use Ninja Magic magnetic adaptors.

 

[Lincolnlog]

I like those. Kind of pricey, but you only need many of the small adapters.

Thanks, appreciate the info.

 

[Da Boss]

I really like them - they are not perfect but pretty good

 

[Dagretto]

I used magnets I picked up from TheWarStore.com, specifically these: http://www.thewarstore.com/product74554.html

I used one on a SkyHawk destroyer, and one on a Texas class CL. The magnet was perfect for the SkyHawk, but a little too small for the CL. The magnet size was dictated by the amount of area I freed up in the base. ( I was using the older style bases, filed down the "ball" to serve as a mount for the magnet). Next time I'll try a slightly larger magnet, and make a mount from plastic tube...

Damon.

 

[Rambler]

Ninja Magic FTW!!!

http://www.rattleheadgames.com/catalog/WithHostileIntent-MagneticAdapterSystemProducts.html

 

[firekite]

Just in case you all have not heard Todd at Ninja Magic will be shutting down for a short time. He will be moving to Texas for a new job. His yahoo group (With Hostile Intent) will remain up during this time until he and his family get settled. If there is anything you want to order from him now would be the time.

 

[Lincolnlog]

Ordered 40 from Rattlehead, which is the retailer their website refers you to. Will get a bunch more of the small connectors for the ships later. Mainly needed 6 to get my ships ready for Nashcon.

Thanks again guys.

Bob

 

[bcantwell]

I am using magnets for my ships (and have been using them for other stuff like aircraft for years). I order my magnets from K&J magnetics. They have every conceivable size and shape. As for rating, I currently have my D7 attached to it's stand with a 3/16" x 1/16" disk magnet glued to the underside of the ship and a 3/16" x 3/16" barrel magnet (basically a cylinder with a 1/16" hole through the center) on the stand. Both are grade N42 magnets and that holds just fine. I used a smaller magnet pair on the F5 - I think a 1/8" x 3/16" N42 on the base and a 1/8" x 1/16" N52 on the ship.

I'm making my own bases using brass tubing and larger washers (look down this thread for my Klingons on their bases), so I can easily mount whatever magnets I need by just matching to the inside diameter of the brass tubing.

Some hints on using magnets - glue these on with 2-part epoxy. The outer coating they put on these is slick and does not provide a good surface for superglues to attach to. The magnets snapping together will eventually pop them loose if you use superglue. I like to drill an appropraite size hole in the model to set the magnet into to give it a good fit there. If using magnets that are big enough to use a barrel magnet, the hole in the center provides a handy air vent and additional surface area for you glue to adhere to. Also, when you get your magnets. immediately sacrifice one as a polarity tester. Glue this magnet to a base of some sort and use it to make sure all of your magnets go onto ships and stands with the same polarity. That makes your bases interchangeable.

 

[mdauben]

Another fan of the Ninja Magic magnetic adapters. I bought enough complete sets to do 40 stands, and then just the small connectors that actually attach to the ship for the rest of my fleets. I figure I'll probably not be playing games with more than 20 ships per side so I can just swap stands depending on what fleet and what ships I am using in a particular game.

 

[archon96]

coresec here

 

[Lincolnlog]

I ordered 40 of the Ninja Majic magentic mounts. The sets come 4 to a pack for about $6.00 a pack. I cut down the Mongoose mount stems, the stems are then thick enough to hold the bottom (magnetic portion) of the mount. With the three mount sections the ships end up being about 1/2" lower than on the standard tall mount.

Combined with Billco's excellent firing arc stickers, the stands are shaping up pretty well.

The next consideration is wether to drill out the bottom of the model to fit the mount better. The models are lose on the small dimples on the mounts. But there is a larger raised area below the mounting nipple (almost a nipple on the nipple).

Any thoughts. How did you guys mate these mounts with the stands and models?

Bob

 

[Da Boss]

I cut down the stems as you did then drill out a hole in the bottom of the ship for the other part of the magnet

 

[gunner41c]

I also use the ones from Rattlehead games. They are the best out there and work very well. Best part is you make up around 10 bases and that's all you need. Very flexible system and will save money in long run. The detachable base/magnet system saves storage space also.

 

[Red-24]

The next consideration is wether to drill out the bottom of the model to fit the mount better. The models are lose on the small dimples on the mounts. But there is a larger raised area below the mounting nipple (almost a nipple on the nipple).

Any thoughts. How did you guys mate these mounts with the stands and models?

I fill the original holes with modelling putty, then when its dry I file it smooth and re-drill a smaller hole for the Ninja Magic adapters to fit in.

You can see the result here:

For some of the smaller Federation ships, I use the top part of the plastic stand as an extension because the Ninja Magic adapter would get in the way of the nacelles.

 

[Lincolnlog]

Having difficulty getting these to bore sight on the stand with the fireing arc stickers was thinking about not gluing the stems. Has anyone else hd this issue and how did you solve the problem?

 

[Greg Smith]

Try and make sure you glue the adaptor to the ship with a zig zag point directly forwards. Then glue you stands with the receiving part of the zig zag to the front.

If you see what I mean.

 

[Lincolnlog]

Not sure if you mean the single tooth on the bottom or the multi teeth on the top. When I glued the the bottom to the upright, I attempted to have the single tooth point straight forward. This worked in most cases. But, of course I want any ship to be able to mate with any stand. So tried to do them all the same.

Bob

 

[Greg Smith]

I was talking about the multi teeth. If you get these oriented the same way on every ship and every stand, you should be able to line them up.

I used to paint names on my B5 stands and try and get the ships so the names were evenly spaced whichever ship was on the stand. It never quite worked though.

 

[scoutdad]

Robert:
Here's the method I use:
Step one - create a sacrificial base [I have a base (primed with red primer) that has the a messed up arc sticker on it.
Step two - A ninja magic adaptor has been glued to it (this is my reference piece)... in fact, each of mine have a small triangle molded into them... I assume this is the front and that's what I glue in the forward position. All bases have this triangle towards the forward arc...
Step three - I prep a mini to receive the adaptor... whether this means filling / drilling or just drilling / etc.
Step four - an adapter is placed on the reference stand and super glue applied to the "prong" of the adapter
Step five - the mini is placed on the adapter/stand combo so as to point towards the forward arc.
Step five - once the glue has dried/set, the mini is removed from the reference stand and is ready to game with.