Tankdriver
Banded Mongoose
Did I read somewhere about something like this?
WWII Evo?
- Thread starter Tankdriver
- Start date
tiepilot1138
Banded Mongoose
I wouldn't mind taking a peak at those rules too...
Check out Wal-mart, they have a cool selection of 28mm-sized german tanks. About three variants, I think. An Anti-Aircraft Wirbelwind, a Panzer with a large-bore gun, and a standard panzer, I think. Also can get a Swimmenwagen, standard Kebelwagen, and a German staff car. Can also get an American transport truck and a Willy's jeep.
The best part: They are as well if not better painted than a BF:E tank for less than 6 dollars (US)!!
You can also get WW2 fighter planes, too for about ten bucks. I have two German ones(can't remember the type, but you can also get American ones.
The best part: They are as well if not better painted than a BF:E tank for less than 6 dollars (US)!!
You can also get WW2 fighter planes, too for about ten bucks. I have two German ones(can't remember the type, but you can also get American ones.
Lorcan Nagle
Mongoose
It's on its' way
Captain_Nemo
Mongoose
Shiiii I'll take one!
Well here is what a M3 Stuart might Look
M3 Stuart/Honey [US/UK]
Points:
Material:
M6 37mm Cannon [Turret]
M1918 MG [Turret]
M1918 MG [Front Hull]
Options:
None
Statistics
Size Move Close Combat Target Armor Kill
3 10” 3xd10 7+ 5+ 10+
Weapon Range Damage
M6 37mm Cannon 40” 1d10
M1918 MG 30” 3xd6
Special Rules
M6 37mm Cannon: This weapon causes a –2 penalty to Armor rolls.
M1918 MG [Turret]: This weapon causes a –1 penalty to Armor rolls. The M1918 may be readied with another weapon system in the same Shoot action but may create its own separate Fire Zone. It may be used as an AA weapon. In addition, every Damage Dice this weapon rolls will count as two for the purposes of Suppression only. If every model in the target unit is assigned two or more Damage Dice when this weapon is used, the unit will lose two actions from Suppression, rather than just one.
M1918 MG [Front Hull]: This weapon causes a –1 penalty to Armor rolls. The M1918 may be readied with another weapon system in the same Shoot action but may create its own separate Fire Zone in front of the M3 Stuart only. In addition, every Damage Dice this weapon rolls will count as two for the purposes of Suppression only. If every model in the target unit is assigned two or more Damage Dice when this weapon is used, the unit will lose two actions from Suppression, rather than just one.
Armored: The M3 Stuart will ignore all terrain 1” high or less for the purposes of movement. It is also immune to Suppression but only has an Armor score of 6+ to the Side or Rear facings. The M3 Stuart may never make any reactions except to Shoot with it its M1918 Machine Guns.
Tough: The M3 Stuart will ignore the .1st Two failed Armor rolls. An attack that rolls its Kill score will destroy it as normal.
M3 Stuart/Honey [US/UK]
Points:
Material:
M6 37mm Cannon [Turret]
M1918 MG [Turret]
M1918 MG [Front Hull]
Options:
None
Statistics
Size Move Close Combat Target Armor Kill
3 10” 3xd10 7+ 5+ 10+
Weapon Range Damage
M6 37mm Cannon 40” 1d10
M1918 MG 30” 3xd6
Special Rules
M6 37mm Cannon: This weapon causes a –2 penalty to Armor rolls.
M1918 MG [Turret]: This weapon causes a –1 penalty to Armor rolls. The M1918 may be readied with another weapon system in the same Shoot action but may create its own separate Fire Zone. It may be used as an AA weapon. In addition, every Damage Dice this weapon rolls will count as two for the purposes of Suppression only. If every model in the target unit is assigned two or more Damage Dice when this weapon is used, the unit will lose two actions from Suppression, rather than just one.
M1918 MG [Front Hull]: This weapon causes a –1 penalty to Armor rolls. The M1918 may be readied with another weapon system in the same Shoot action but may create its own separate Fire Zone in front of the M3 Stuart only. In addition, every Damage Dice this weapon rolls will count as two for the purposes of Suppression only. If every model in the target unit is assigned two or more Damage Dice when this weapon is used, the unit will lose two actions from Suppression, rather than just one.
Armored: The M3 Stuart will ignore all terrain 1” high or less for the purposes of movement. It is also immune to Suppression but only has an Armor score of 6+ to the Side or Rear facings. The M3 Stuart may never make any reactions except to Shoot with it its M1918 Machine Guns.
Tough: The M3 Stuart will ignore the .1st Two failed Armor rolls. An attack that rolls its Kill score will destroy it as normal.
The Old Soldier
Mongoose
Just a observation, the Tank is a light vehicle.I can go with a 7 Target, but a 6 might be better. The Kill should be 9 at best I prefer 8. Increase the Armor value that way small arms have a very small chance of damaging the vehicle while Vehicle main guns would still be able to take the tank out fairly easy with a 8 or 9 Kill. The MG should be a straight D6.
The main gun is very light as a 37mm. A D8 would be best. or at most a D8+1. I tend to go with the lower number.
To put things in perspective I would have rifles at a D6-1. Only really heavy machine guns such as the .50cal would have a D6+1. There are better ways to show how medium and Heavy MGs differ from one another. For example, one method is to check for suppression AFTER removing models. This will generate more suppression without having to increase the number of dice, or adding pluses to it.
Immune to suppression is a bad idea for WW2 style vehicles. Instead there would be a D roll attached to Target results. A failure would cause a Suppression. Some vehicle may have other result attached to Target and Kill numbers. I also have been working on some WW2 stuff. I determined the best way to handle it, was to start from scratch, and not use many of the same methods MP uses. Also to start from the beginning of the war, that way you keep the stats down, and they will increase as new and better weapons are made during the war. Otherwise you end up having to adjust on the fly.
I started mine with The Invasion of Poland.Unit Cards should be marked by Year.
The main gun is very light as a 37mm. A D8 would be best. or at most a D8+1. I tend to go with the lower number.
To put things in perspective I would have rifles at a D6-1. Only really heavy machine guns such as the .50cal would have a D6+1. There are better ways to show how medium and Heavy MGs differ from one another. For example, one method is to check for suppression AFTER removing models. This will generate more suppression without having to increase the number of dice, or adding pluses to it.
Immune to suppression is a bad idea for WW2 style vehicles. Instead there would be a D roll attached to Target results. A failure would cause a Suppression. Some vehicle may have other result attached to Target and Kill numbers. I also have been working on some WW2 stuff. I determined the best way to handle it, was to start from scratch, and not use many of the same methods MP uses. Also to start from the beginning of the war, that way you keep the stats down, and they will increase as new and better weapons are made during the war. Otherwise you end up having to adjust on the fly.
I started mine with The Invasion of Poland.Unit Cards should be marked by Year.
This was the basic formula I cam up with. Mads are good.
Main Gun Range Damage AP
Medium Machine Gun [.30 Cal] 30” 3xd6 -1
Heavy Machine Gun [.50 Cal] 36” 2xd6+1 -1
Ultra Light [20mm] 36” 1d6+2 -1
Light Cannon [37mm] 40” 1d10 -2
Medium Cannon [50mm] 50” 1d10+2 -2
Heavy Cannon [75mm] 60” 1d10+3 -3
Huge Cannon [88mm] 72” 1d10+4 -4
Armor Target Armor Kill Toughness
Soft Skin [Jeep] 6+ 6+ 8+ 1
Light Armor [Stuart] 7+ 5+ 10+ 2
Medium Armor [M4] 8+ 4+ 12+ 3
Heavy Armor [Tiger] 8+ 3+ 13+ 4
Super Hvy [Tiger II] 8+ 2+ 14+ 5
Main Gun Range Damage AP
Medium Machine Gun [.30 Cal] 30” 3xd6 -1
Heavy Machine Gun [.50 Cal] 36” 2xd6+1 -1
Ultra Light [20mm] 36” 1d6+2 -1
Light Cannon [37mm] 40” 1d10 -2
Medium Cannon [50mm] 50” 1d10+2 -2
Heavy Cannon [75mm] 60” 1d10+3 -3
Huge Cannon [88mm] 72” 1d10+4 -4
Armor Target Armor Kill Toughness
Soft Skin [Jeep] 6+ 6+ 8+ 1
Light Armor [Stuart] 7+ 5+ 10+ 2
Medium Armor [M4] 8+ 4+ 12+ 3
Heavy Armor [Tiger] 8+ 3+ 13+ 4
Super Hvy [Tiger II] 8+ 2+ 14+ 5
The Old Soldier said:
1] The Numbers were based on some of the other Units [M1A2 for the Tiger II, the Tecnical for the Soft skin] as long as it works out in the end that is ok to me.
2] I like the idia of a D8
3] Though the idea of a d6-1 looks good, the main die you will be rolling would be the Basic Rifle Die, to give the most common die a automatic modifier could slow the game down.
4] I was only goiong to make Tanks Immune to supression, though the thought of being able to supress veicles sounds interesting, how about if a vehicle makes its armor save a point of suppresion and if it fails two?
5] As far as the Date, I like North Africa the most even though my Favorite Vehicle is not Present [The 55mph+, tin foil for armor, second bigest gun on the block M18 Hellcat]
The Old Soldier
Mongoose
No problem. I just use a system that has less impact. Rule of thumb for me is NEVER have a modifier greater than +2 to any die. NEVER have a Kill score greater than 12. And use different dice. Most modifiers should be either a +1 at best, or have a way to show it special nature, such as penatration value, or a modifier toward Suppression.
D4, D6, D8, D12. Also adding a L rating to Card. This is the number that will be check in certain conditions. Such a Vehicle Suppression. But, I have not decided to use it, or tie it in with the Failed Armor Saves. Even toying with the idea of each vehicle having it's own special chart. Since most of the weapons are very straight forward.
I would have lowered the ratings on the Jeep, but gave it a agile trait, and lowered the movement on the tank. Tanks in WW2 were much slower than their modern cousins.
I have the basic Rifle as a D6-1, but I understand your reasoning. Later war improvements raised some Rifles to the basic D6. Plus most rifles were bolt action, the advent of the semi-automatic, and automatic rifle added a new twist, giving units greater suppression fire.
D4, D6, D8, D12. Also adding a L rating to Card. This is the number that will be check in certain conditions. Such a Vehicle Suppression. But, I have not decided to use it, or tie it in with the Failed Armor Saves. Even toying with the idea of each vehicle having it's own special chart. Since most of the weapons are very straight forward.
I would have lowered the ratings on the Jeep, but gave it a agile trait, and lowered the movement on the tank. Tanks in WW2 were much slower than their modern cousins.
I have the basic Rifle as a D6-1, but I understand your reasoning. Later war improvements raised some Rifles to the basic D6. Plus most rifles were bolt action, the advent of the semi-automatic, and automatic rifle added a new twist, giving units greater suppression fire.
These are some more of my concepts. Most of the Numbers I got from my copy of Gear Krieg
Machine Guns
.303 Besa [UK] R: 16” D: 3xd6
.303 Bren Gun [UK] R: 16” D: 2xd6
.30 M1918 [UK] R: 16” D: 3xd6
Vickers Heavy Machine Gun [UK] R: 32”” D: 2xd6+1
.50 M2HB [US] R: 32”” D: 2xd6+1
15mm Besa [UK] R: 32” D: 2xd6+1
7.62mmL [USSR] R: 16” D: 3xd6
MG 34 [Germany] R: 16” D: 3xd6
Large Caliber Gun
2lb Cannon [UK] R: 48” D: 1d8
6lb Cannon [UK] R: 64” D: 1d8+1
M6 37mm Gun [US] R: 64” D: 1d8
M2 75mm Cannon [US] R: 64” D: 1d10+1
76mm Model 40 [USSR] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
45mm Model 39 [USSR] R: 48” D: 1d8+1
2cm KwK 30 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d6
3.7cm KwK 38 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d6+1
5cm KwK L42 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d8+1
7.5cm KwK L/24 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d10+1
7.5cm KwK L33 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d10+1
7.5cm Pak 40 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
8.8cm KwK [Germany] R: 112” D: 1d12+2 [-4 Save]
8.8cm KwK 36 L56 [Germany] R: 96” D: 1d12+2 [-3 Save]
40mm Bofors [UK] R: 96” D: 1d8+1
M3 75mm [US] R: 64” D: 1d10+1
T1 76mm [US] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
Machine Guns
.303 Besa [UK] R: 16” D: 3xd6
.303 Bren Gun [UK] R: 16” D: 2xd6
.30 M1918 [UK] R: 16” D: 3xd6
Vickers Heavy Machine Gun [UK] R: 32”” D: 2xd6+1
.50 M2HB [US] R: 32”” D: 2xd6+1
15mm Besa [UK] R: 32” D: 2xd6+1
7.62mmL [USSR] R: 16” D: 3xd6
MG 34 [Germany] R: 16” D: 3xd6
Large Caliber Gun
2lb Cannon [UK] R: 48” D: 1d8
6lb Cannon [UK] R: 64” D: 1d8+1
M6 37mm Gun [US] R: 64” D: 1d8
M2 75mm Cannon [US] R: 64” D: 1d10+1
76mm Model 40 [USSR] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
45mm Model 39 [USSR] R: 48” D: 1d8+1
2cm KwK 30 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d6
3.7cm KwK 38 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d6+1
5cm KwK L42 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d8+1
7.5cm KwK L/24 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d10+1
7.5cm KwK L33 [Germany] R: 48” D: 1d10+1
7.5cm Pak 40 [Germany] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
8.8cm KwK [Germany] R: 112” D: 1d12+2 [-4 Save]
8.8cm KwK 36 L56 [Germany] R: 96” D: 1d12+2 [-3 Save]
40mm Bofors [UK] R: 96” D: 1d8+1
M3 75mm [US] R: 64” D: 1d10+1
T1 76mm [US] R: 64” D: 1d12 or 1d10+2
The Old Soldier
Mongoose
If you don't start from the beginning and take your time with those stats your going to find yourself in a real fix later.
I think it far better to look toward the scale of the game.
All Players should have at the heart of the game, the Basic Infantry Platoon. The options they can draw upon from the Company and to a lesser degree the Battalion assets. Then in some special cases a extremely limited option from the Regimental. Start with a working table and list from there and it becomes much easier to add new items later.
If you do it by year or at least by Campaign year, you will be able to give special options to the troops and army list. 1940 France would be one such list. There the German's could have such Army rules a Blitzkreig: The player rolls a D6 during setup, on a 4+ he may take a extra Battalion, or Regimental Asset. Superior Flexiblity: The MG section of the German card may split off from the main unit as long as one Leader is attached to it. Highly Motivated: If a NCO of the unit or section is Killed, he may be replaced by another model with no loss of actions on a 4+. The above are examples of how to make a Infantry Platoon stand out with "historical flavor" as German 1940.
Once you do this, looking at what the basic Infantry squad has available to them, at all levels will set the goal of vehicles and weapons you need to look at and work on. Otherwise your just trying to do too much.
Elite and Veteran Troops levels should also be considered when making cards. Elites might be both Highly Motivated, and never lose more than one action both in loss of command, or in suppression, While veterans, might Be Highly motivated, and never lose more than one action if out of command. Or they might be able to make better use of cover than normal troops. Just a few things to consider.
I think it far better to look toward the scale of the game.
All Players should have at the heart of the game, the Basic Infantry Platoon. The options they can draw upon from the Company and to a lesser degree the Battalion assets. Then in some special cases a extremely limited option from the Regimental. Start with a working table and list from there and it becomes much easier to add new items later.
If you do it by year or at least by Campaign year, you will be able to give special options to the troops and army list. 1940 France would be one such list. There the German's could have such Army rules a Blitzkreig: The player rolls a D6 during setup, on a 4+ he may take a extra Battalion, or Regimental Asset. Superior Flexiblity: The MG section of the German card may split off from the main unit as long as one Leader is attached to it. Highly Motivated: If a NCO of the unit or section is Killed, he may be replaced by another model with no loss of actions on a 4+. The above are examples of how to make a Infantry Platoon stand out with "historical flavor" as German 1940.
Once you do this, looking at what the basic Infantry squad has available to them, at all levels will set the goal of vehicles and weapons you need to look at and work on. Otherwise your just trying to do too much.
Elite and Veteran Troops levels should also be considered when making cards. Elites might be both Highly Motivated, and never lose more than one action both in loss of command, or in suppression, While veterans, might Be Highly motivated, and never lose more than one action if out of command. Or they might be able to make better use of cover than normal troops. Just a few things to consider.
