Turning Example
- Thread starter Bostich
- Start date
Soulmage said:
Basically, you snug up the key to the rear of the ship. If it's a counter or a based model, it's one of the three edges where it says "counter/stern". The ship pivots on the rear corner that is touching the vertex of the angle, next to the approprite white turn number. If the model you are using is not based, you can line up the model parallel to the red dashed line, centered and perpendicular to the key edge. You then pivot (from the stern) and "dock" with the long leg of the turn angle. If it's a counter, you stop when it touches the hey edge. If it's a model ship, you bring it parallel with the key edge.
Just for the fun of it, I can make up a graphic guide and post it.
This should nail down the concept of the use of the key. If you wanted to turn from the center of the counter, you'd have to slide the counter over the key edge. As long as it was agreed how all the players would use the key, it could work in several ways.
As always, consistancy in its use in a game would be recommended. As several have already mentioned, having a rear edge to place the ship in square contact with before turning starts ensures accuracy.
As always, consistancy in its use in a game would be recommended. As several have already mentioned, having a rear edge to place the ship in square contact with before turning starts ensures accuracy.
juggler69uk
Mongoose
Good work BU exactly as I imagined it in use when I suggested the notches. Glad MG took the option up too, nice to have it officially as an unofficial approved play aid :lol:
Here is perhaps one last key variant. I made it for those that would not feel right somehow about using the counter/base side edge (I think that it's easier to just do that though). In a sense, it's a "double" notch key in that it has an additional inset cut that allows for pivoting off of the red line and for the rear corner of the counter to have a place to fit into.
It barely works for the counter width and would not work for wider bases really. Also, it gives even less of a line than the previous keys to square the ship against before turning.
It barely works for the counter width and would not work for wider bases really. Also, it gives even less of a line than the previous keys to square the ship against before turning.
Although juggler69uk's suggestion that the key be made into a two-sided design was fine, it just occured to me that it is not necessary to use it that way for it to work just fine, from either side (!).
What you do (of course this differs based upon which side you are using at the time) is to just reverse the usage for the opposite turn. For example, if you were using the key as in the example above (port side), for a starboard turn you'd flush the key up to the ship on the long side (the "finish line") and pivot the ship to the right. It's a bit of an epiphany, but so simple that it's funny. :wink:
Thus, the key does not really need to be made in two sides. Oh, well. :wink:
What you do (of course this differs based upon which side you are using at the time) is to just reverse the usage for the opposite turn. For example, if you were using the key as in the example above (port side), for a starboard turn you'd flush the key up to the ship on the long side (the "finish line") and pivot the ship to the right. It's a bit of an epiphany, but so simple that it's funny. :wink:
Thus, the key does not really need to be made in two sides. Oh, well. :wink:
Soulmage said:
Well, it's good that you asked as it can be hard to see how something works sometimes, without the perspective of the other person. For example, when juggler69uk asked for "notches", I could have just added a rectangular section to the exterior first leg of each angle. Because I saw that adding those would destroy the overlap efficiency of the angle legs, I had to build it from scratch.
I'm also going to retract (partially) what I said just above regarding the redundancy of using two sides. For both the long 10" version and the condensed "jeep" version, you still need both sides of the key. If you were to use the method reversed, you'd be pivoting from the opposite rear corner of the counter/base. That would not be consistant and therefore I want to recant that comment (like I said, partially). If you were to use this last "centerline" version, it could be used for both port and starboard uses from either side and with the same result. This is due to the symmetrical usage of that key.
Therefore, I would decide which key was "best" for your local group (by consensus) and try to use only a single version for simplicity. There is really nothing "wrong" with either the original Mongoose-approved key, DM's optional key or my first mod of DM's key. All can be used, but with slightly different results. You'd also see some difference in the result between the "centerline" key and the "beam edge" keys of the new designs. For absolute ease-of-use I'm still favoring the 10"/"jeep" key, even if it does make use of the side of the base/counter and offsets the turn slightly. As long as all players at the table are using the same key design and all agree, there should be no problem with their use.
New update. An idea hit me (like a bright light) after making that last centerline turning mod. I've contacted DM, because now it appears that my several days work on "improving" the basic design might be a case of "there and back again". I now present you guys with the new concept.
Drum Roll...
It's a good one, I promise you!
(more drum rolls)
Now, a few flourishes...
and...
AND...
TADA!!!
Yep! It's DM's basic design. My epiphany was that we don't need notches or even two sides (sorry, juggler69uk). It just hit me that I could rotate the counter and use it as a centerline pivot from the counter end. Pftt! How come someone here didn't tell me, huh? :lol: Anyway, I'm not sorry for the lost work, as those still can work, albeit they're more complex ways of doing a simple job.
Well, what do you guys think? Is this project finished :?:
Drum Roll...
It's a good one, I promise you!
(more drum rolls)
Now, a few flourishes...
and...
AND...
TADA!!!
Yep! It's DM's basic design. My epiphany was that we don't need notches or even two sides (sorry, juggler69uk). It just hit me that I could rotate the counter and use it as a centerline pivot from the counter end. Pftt! How come someone here didn't tell me, huh? :lol: Anyway, I'm not sorry for the lost work, as those still can work, albeit they're more complex ways of doing a simple job.
Well, what do you guys think? Is this project finished :?:
Very nice, but a little "busy". I'd like to see one without the instructions printed right on it; after all, once you've seen the example you've got the idea.
Also, the VAS logo is a bit garish in this setting.
The essential title and copyright info, printed in the center where it doesn't overlap the measuring marks, would be sufficient.
Also, the VAS logo is a bit garish in this setting.
The essential title and copyright info, printed in the center where it doesn't overlap the measuring marks, would be sufficient.
Buffer54 said:
I do not disagree that it is a bit busy. I placed the instructions on the key and only then decided to make up the overall example and redundant instructions. Also, the red lines don't "help" the busy nature of it but are essential (and I know that you weren't commenting on those in particular but even so...). I'll try a tweak that removes the instructions, as those are on the main sheet anyway. Thanks for the input.
Using your input Buffer54, I compromised. I left the logo but removed the instructions. In centering the logo more it occurred to me that the alignment lines look a bit like they're illuminating the ship in the logo, so I changed them to yellow. :lol: The color helps a bit too as it is less bold but still visible.
If you still think it's too busy, you can always flip it over and use the blank side you know. :wink: I also made up a page with three keys, to save on needless printing when wanting to make several keys (once you know how to use the keys).
As the versions of this project are quickly getting to the point of being ridiculous, I think I'll give it a rest now. My thanks go to those who gave their opinions freely and they all did indeed assist in helping it go through its evolution.
I hope that you all had "fun" in its development. If your gaming experience is improved, then the effort was all worth it.
If you still think it's too busy, you can always flip it over and use the blank side you know. :wink: I also made up a page with three keys, to save on needless printing when wanting to make several keys (once you know how to use the keys).
As the versions of this project are quickly getting to the point of being ridiculous, I think I'll give it a rest now. My thanks go to those who gave their opinions freely and they all did indeed assist in helping it go through its evolution.
I hope that you all had "fun" in its development. If your gaming experience is improved, then the effort was all worth it.
juggler69uk
Mongoose
Hey no worries BU, if we had not gone down the route of the notch, you wouldnt have had the double notch idea etc etc. its all good in the end
I still like the notch idea, and will print off some cut up ones (if I can without wrecking the pics) to give individual keys for each turn when theres no space to lay in the larger key. eack key being about the size of the largest ship
I still like the notch idea, and will print off some cut up ones (if I can without wrecking the pics) to give individual keys for each turn when theres no space to lay in the larger key. eack key being about the size of the largest ship
