Turning Example
- Thread starter Bostich
- Start date
juggler69uk
Mongoose
I think a circle radius of just over 3" (about 3.18) gives a quarter circle of 5" so you could have your ruler the same 8" length but the last 3"(and the bit) is curve (giving 9") -- make the other end of the ruler your 90° and see what shape ensues for the other turns.
Im only exploring here dont shoot me :wink: :lol: [/img]
Im only exploring here dont shoot me :wink: :lol: [/img]
Sure, that might work 
. I'm preferring to probably keep all of my straight sections, as they are useful in helping to line things up. Anything over 8" would be too easy in having a 12" ruler or two laying around anyway. Also, you could superimpose a second key over the first and use it staggered to lengthen the rule. I just saw a use in making the key's longest side into a ruled edge to be used as a quick-grab "move and turn" usage. I'll still have a fistfull of 12" rulers with me for those long-legged tin cans.
BTW, this is how I'd think the key would be used, based from the way that Mongoose has chosen to turn ships from their sterns. The examples are no-brainers, but were fun to make up. The +3" turn sections for each of the angles is needed to turn both port and starboard.
Like you said juggler69uk, you could curve one of the coners and maybe extend the "ruler" but I'd think you'd need to use it on its edge maybe (unless I did not understand you correctly). Remember, I didn't "shoot" so don't broadside me, ok? :lol:
. I'm preferring to probably keep all of my straight sections, as they are useful in helping to line things up. Anything over 8" would be too easy in having a 12" ruler or two laying around anyway. Also, you could superimpose a second key over the first and use it staggered to lengthen the rule. I just saw a use in making the key's longest side into a ruled edge to be used as a quick-grab "move and turn" usage. I'll still have a fistfull of 12" rulers with me for those long-legged tin cans.BTW, this is how I'd think the key would be used, based from the way that Mongoose has chosen to turn ships from their sterns. The examples are no-brainers, but were fun to make up. The +3" turn sections for each of the angles is needed to turn both port and starboard.
Like you said juggler69uk, you could curve one of the coners and maybe extend the "ruler" but I'd think you'd need to use it on its edge maybe (unless I did not understand you correctly). Remember, I didn't "shoot" so don't broadside me, ok? :lol:
juggler69uk
Mongoose
Yes, using the ruler on its edge was the idea to get a 10" move on an 8" template.
Just exploring another idea ~ I dont know if this is possible, but, maybe you could include a "notch" in the template to line the back of the ship on (save guessing the "parallel" bit) before turning it
Just exploring another idea ~ I dont know if this is possible, but, maybe you could include a "notch" in the template to line the back of the ship on (save guessing the "parallel" bit) before turning it
juggler69uk said:
My thinking is that since the template is used for both port and starboard turns a notch wouldn't help. An alterante method might be to place something with a 90-deg edge parallel to the first leg, butting up to the counter's rear edge. A wood or plastic ruler would do that nicely. Then there are those that will use ship models without bases so they'll need to estimate anyway.
As to the ruler issue, I might even make some keys with a superimposed straight length laid on top of the long edge. I can use clear tape or a like material and tape a "hinge" to one end. Then, for thos fast tin cans you'd just flop the ruler extension down and run out the ship's total move.
There are a lot of ways to make play aids. There's nothing wrong with the Mongoose downloaded aid (the double one to do both port & starboard turns), as you just have to hold the ship over it and pivot the stern. Another option with it would be to print it on clear plastic or acetate, then laminate it. Then you could hold it over the ship and move the ship without picking it up. Of course, this is best when playing on a floor as you'd have to be looking down. On a table, I'd use the key sytle that DM offered here.
juggler69uk
Mongoose
BuShips said:
errr my thinking was you just flip it over for the opposite turn
juggler69uk said:
I'd think it would take a redesign of the key for that.
In keeping my key quite like DM's, the second leg of turn 1 is the first in turn 2, etc. Only four lines are needed to allow the three turns used in the game and they work for either port or starboard uses without flipping the key over. I'm quite fond of its "tight" design, actually.
If I understand your suggestion correctly (and it's certainly possible that I haven't properly visualised it), if you allow for either an interior notch or an exterior "rectangle", I'd think you'd need to separate the overlapping lines that are "dual use" and redesign the play-aid. Also, I can't seem to visualise how having a notch would allow the counter to pivot from the stern properly. My thinking of what you suggest is to reverse it from a notch into an external guide.
I'll play with an idea based on what you suggest and post it.
If you think you have a better idea, then by all means add it to this thread
. The topic owner's question has already been answered, so any further additions that would help in easy ship turning can't hurt.juggler69uk, I'm waiting for permission from Matt before posting a version based upon your input. I though the key was "nifty" enough that I placed a VAS logo and MGP copyright info onto it. Thus, that version would need MGP clearance before I posted it.
The key did indeed require a complete redesign and it does have your "notches" in it.
The key did indeed require a complete redesign and it does have your "notches" in it.
Oh, one more thing. Although I liked the stubby key in order to have a better chance of not hitting other ships on the table, it doesn't matter how long it is if counters are used. Bearing that in mind partially, the new design has allowance for even a Le Fantasque running at "Flank Speed!" (using OOB rules). In other words, it has a 10" ruler incorporated into the key.
I've just finished a version that has two sides on the sheet, with one side reversed for mounting back-to-back.
I've just finished a version that has two sides on the sheet, with one side reversed for mounting back-to-back.
DM said:
Jeez, what with my original design, your mods, Jug's notches and the MGP branding this thing is turning into an IPR jungle
Just make sure I get my cut if anyone starts selling plastic turn keys
It's called "inspirational pingpong"
.Oh, don't worry, as I was donating all proceeds to the orphans. BTW, I'm setting up a new company called "ORPHANS". :lol:
I'd have already posted the new version, but I decided to run the new design past Matt to see if they'd "adopt" it. It would make for a nice one/two-page insert into S&P. If I wrote the story, I'd give credit where due.
Basically, you inserted the idea of a key not unlike Car Wars has used. Then I tweaked it to make a straight edge ruler fit on. THEN, juggler69uk inserted his thoughts and steered me into a total redesign that basically inverts the angles. This redesign caused the key to lengthen, which it happens seems to allow for a longer embedded ruler.
Well, so much for surprising you. I was hoping you'd check in after the next version was posted. :roll: If Matt isn't impressed, I'll strip off the IP and post it as a generic key. Oh, heck with it. I'll whip out a version and drop it here for further input. It'll be interesting to see if it gets altered more. :wink:
Edit: Previously posted version pulled in order to direct players to the approved two versions below. Please let me know how useful they are to you. Thanks.
juggler69uk
Mongoose
Looks good to me, thats exactly how I envisaged the notches in use
juggler69uk
Mongoose
Think I may print on clear sheet, and stick to thin perspex, though I might also make up indivudual turn ones for those tight spaces
OK, here is a single-sided key for those that wish to keep it simple and don't care if the reverse side is blank. Make sure to not print it from the web. Save the image first. Then when you print it the ruler should print in proper scale.
Here is the double-sided version.
I recommend gluing the paper down to cardstock, making sure to align both sides correctly. I also recommend laminating the key to reduce wear and keep it clean.
I may even edit this later if imageshack doesn't do as well as photobucket did.
I'm a little "ticked" at imageshack altering the file names. Photobucket didn't do that. I just wish photobucket hadn't picked today to do "maintenance". :roll:
Edit: OK, I replaced the imageshack hosted versions with photobucket ones.
Here is the double-sided version.
I recommend gluing the paper down to cardstock, making sure to align both sides correctly. I also recommend laminating the key to reduce wear and keep it clean.
I may even edit this later if imageshack doesn't do as well as photobucket did.
I'm a little "ticked" at imageshack altering the file names. Photobucket didn't do that. I just wish photobucket hadn't picked today to do "maintenance". :roll:
Edit: OK, I replaced the imageshack hosted versions with photobucket ones.
Bostich said:
We aim to please.
I'd like to know just how useful it might be. It might turn out to be ungainly because of the length. If that becomes a consensus, I can shorten it down some too. With counters of course, that wouldn't be an issue. Mongoose has approved of its use as an optional play-aid, so I have submitted a short article for those playing the game that don't hang out here.
DM said:
That's Ok then. I was worried the MGP police might come a'knocking if I was using it (I don't think they've reached the heady heights of GW in terms of "Chapter Approved" and other such tosh just yet!)
Yes, I believe it should be described as "unofficial" but approved of. I think there's a difference between those two. :wink:
Alright, I've done one more key. This is a shorter version that returns to my earlier design length of 7". This way, folks can use what they wish, or perhaps have a few versions laying about the table. I nicknamed this a "jeep key". I guess if I had been German I'd have called it a "pocket key".:wink:
