[CONAN] GM's Closet
- Thread starter Supplement Four
- Start date
Supplement Four
Mongoose
Supplement Four
Mongoose
Supplement Four
Mongoose
Supplement Four
Mongoose
The King said:
This thread is meant for anything that a Conan GM would be interested to see or read--stuff that would help him run his game.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
Supplement Four
Mongoose
MUD PUDDLE!
A GAMBLING GAME FOR THE CONAN THE BARBARIAN ROLEPLAYING GAME
Mud Puddle, or "Puddle" as it is sometimes called, is a game of chance and skill played throughout the Hyborian kingdoms. The game is played with tiles, not unlike modern day dominoes or mahjong tiles. Only two players play, often because tile decks are not complete, and there is not enough tiles to accommodate more players (but there are other reasons, see below). At the start of the game, all the tiles are placed in the center of the two players and washed. That is, the dealer (usually the owner of the deck) mixes the tiles randomly to the other player's satisfaction. The area between the two players is called the "puddle". When the dealer's opponent is happy with the wash, the opponent draws one tile from the pool towards himself. The dealer does the same thing. Then, the opponent draws a second tile towards him to form his starting hand. The dealer, too, pulls from the puddle and takes a second tile for his starting hand.
Usually, there is a "post" before the tiles are washed and the opening hands are dealt, with both dealer and player putting up something of value to start the game. When the deal is made (the players take their two tiles), the players arrange these by making their best hand. Each long end of a tile has a value, and the players' hands are made up of two touching sides. Each tile has two different values on it, one on each end of the tile. So, there are only four combinations to start the game.
Players keep their hand's secret from the other player. Once the deal is made, there is a betting round where the player, not the dealer, always goes first. He can pass and not bet. Or, he can bet.
The dealer, then, can fold his hand and surrender his post that he paid to the puddle earlier. Or, the dealer can call the player's bet. Or, the dealer can meet and raise the player's bet.
If there is a raise, the player can call the raise, raise the raise, or fold his hand. And, so on. Any money bet is paid to the pool, between the two players.
Once the betting is done, each gambler (first the player, the the dealer) picks a new tile from the pool and places it face up in front of him. Each gambler can use the value of the exposed card and watch his opponent's play in an effort to get a read on the other gambler's hand. Since each tile is marked with two values (one on each end), the owner of the tile can use whichever end of the tile best helps his hand, but he does not have to decide at this point. He can change his mind about the ordering during the last phase of the game. Some ranks shown on the tiles reduce the gambler's secret hand. Other ranks on the tiles will improve the gambler's secret hand.
Once both gamblers have the open tiles, a betting round is made, and it is handled just like the betting made after the deal.
Now, for the last phase of the game. As before, each gambler selects another tile from the puddle. Again, the player selects first followed by the dealer. This second tile is also turn up for both gambers to see. Here, at the end of the game, each gambler's complete hand will consist of two secret tiles and two open tiles that each gambler sees. Again, some ranks reduce the gambler's secret hand, but some increase the value of a hand. Each gambler decides how to make the best hand from his four tiles in his head, and then finishes the hand.
The lowest hand possible in the game beats every other hand. Otherwise, the highest hand wins. In the event of a tie, the two gamblers re-wash all of the tiles and play a second hand (but, when this happens, posting is not necessary and the money already paid to the pool stays in the pool). New hands are played, keeping whatever bets are in the pool, until a winner is established (who takes the entire pool of winnings).
At this point, the gamblers play through their final betting round. As always, the player bets first followed by the dealer, and the betting round is handled just like those in previous phases.
Once the betting is done, the dealer must reveal his hand to the player. The player can fold his hand, if he knows he's beat, without revealing his secret tiles to the dealer, or, if the player knows that he will win, he can reveal his secret hand, declare his hand's rank (proving what he says by showing the secret tiles) and take the pot.
This completes a hand of Mud Puddle.
Not all gamblers know this, but the game is named for a Zamorian saying, "One must step through the mud puddle to find riches." It means that one must work hard and endure strife in order to find one's way to wealth and prosperity. Among the Zamorian thieves, it means that one must be willing to get dirty (pull off a dangerous job) in order to gain the prizes.
Among the Zamorian thieves, the game is sometimes referred to as "Fence," although no thief would ever describe the game that way in mixed company. What the multitude of Mud Puddle gamblers don't know is that the game originated in ancient Zamora, long before the Hyborian Age. It is said that the game is based on a Khitian game that found its way to ancient Zamora along the trade routes. Zamorian thieves took to the game not only as a way to gamble, but also as a way to fence their stolen goods. You see, the thieves would play Mud Puddle with patrons at a tavern, preferably with travelers. If the thief won, he would pocket the coin. If he lost, he would offer to pay his opponent fairly, with coin, or the thief would give his opponent the option of forgoing the payment and taking some stolen object offered by the thief. This works best when the thief offers an object of more value than the coin that the thief would have paid to the other player--the thief getting better value on his item than he would at his usual fence. Thieves good at this would sometimes not only kept their gambling losses when fencing items this way but also would convince their opponent that the offered item was worth more than what was owed to the player, having the opponent accept the item and pay the thief some extra coin! When a thief does a good job fencing his stolen items through playing the game, he'll refer to it, among other thieves only, as, "pulling his opponent through the mud."
Mention above is the note that Mud Puddle is usually played with one dealer and one player. The reason for this is not only because there are not enough cards in a Puddle deck to accommodate multiple players (and some decks are incomplete but still used), but the game evolved that way because it allows a thief to focus on one person, working on him, in order to get the best deal he can for his stolen goods.
The game became a favorite in Zamora first. Then, as the Hyborian kingdoms birthed itself across the continent, Mud Puddle traveled along the trade routes to most parts of the known world, played by traveling thieves, caravan guards, mercenaries, bandits, and gamblers.
A Mud Puddle deck is a set of tiles with images and designs carved on one side (not unlike the Majhong pic above). Tiles are of different sizes but usually about the size of half a man's hand. The tiles themselves are typically made of lacquered and fired brick or carved from lacquered wood. More expensive decks are made of etched and polished stone. Brick, wood, ivory, and granite are popular materials. A deck will typically have a hole drilled on one end so that a leather cord can be submitted through the hold to carry all the tiles. When in play, the tiles are removed from the leather loop and placed face down on the table in the pool, in between the dealer and the player, then washed, as described above. Sometimes, and odd deck will be used where the values of the tiles are different from that shown on a standard deck, but the game is played the same way. Also, some players insist that the dealer and player switch back and forth each hand so that the same gambler doesn't bet first every time.
A GAMBLING GAME FOR THE CONAN THE BARBARIAN ROLEPLAYING GAME
Mud Puddle, or "Puddle" as it is sometimes called, is a game of chance and skill played throughout the Hyborian kingdoms. The game is played with tiles, not unlike modern day dominoes or mahjong tiles. Only two players play, often because tile decks are not complete, and there is not enough tiles to accommodate more players (but there are other reasons, see below). At the start of the game, all the tiles are placed in the center of the two players and washed. That is, the dealer (usually the owner of the deck) mixes the tiles randomly to the other player's satisfaction. The area between the two players is called the "puddle". When the dealer's opponent is happy with the wash, the opponent draws one tile from the pool towards himself. The dealer does the same thing. Then, the opponent draws a second tile towards him to form his starting hand. The dealer, too, pulls from the puddle and takes a second tile for his starting hand.
Usually, there is a "post" before the tiles are washed and the opening hands are dealt, with both dealer and player putting up something of value to start the game. When the deal is made (the players take their two tiles), the players arrange these by making their best hand. Each long end of a tile has a value, and the players' hands are made up of two touching sides. Each tile has two different values on it, one on each end of the tile. So, there are only four combinations to start the game.
This is an ancient Majhong set. Imagine the Hyborian Age tiles look something similar.
Players keep their hand's secret from the other player. Once the deal is made, there is a betting round where the player, not the dealer, always goes first. He can pass and not bet. Or, he can bet.
The dealer, then, can fold his hand and surrender his post that he paid to the puddle earlier. Or, the dealer can call the player's bet. Or, the dealer can meet and raise the player's bet.
If there is a raise, the player can call the raise, raise the raise, or fold his hand. And, so on. Any money bet is paid to the pool, between the two players.
Once the betting is done, each gambler (first the player, the the dealer) picks a new tile from the pool and places it face up in front of him. Each gambler can use the value of the exposed card and watch his opponent's play in an effort to get a read on the other gambler's hand. Since each tile is marked with two values (one on each end), the owner of the tile can use whichever end of the tile best helps his hand, but he does not have to decide at this point. He can change his mind about the ordering during the last phase of the game. Some ranks shown on the tiles reduce the gambler's secret hand. Other ranks on the tiles will improve the gambler's secret hand.
Once both gamblers have the open tiles, a betting round is made, and it is handled just like the betting made after the deal.
Now, for the last phase of the game. As before, each gambler selects another tile from the puddle. Again, the player selects first followed by the dealer. This second tile is also turn up for both gambers to see. Here, at the end of the game, each gambler's complete hand will consist of two secret tiles and two open tiles that each gambler sees. Again, some ranks reduce the gambler's secret hand, but some increase the value of a hand. Each gambler decides how to make the best hand from his four tiles in his head, and then finishes the hand.
The lowest hand possible in the game beats every other hand. Otherwise, the highest hand wins. In the event of a tie, the two gamblers re-wash all of the tiles and play a second hand (but, when this happens, posting is not necessary and the money already paid to the pool stays in the pool). New hands are played, keeping whatever bets are in the pool, until a winner is established (who takes the entire pool of winnings).
At this point, the gamblers play through their final betting round. As always, the player bets first followed by the dealer, and the betting round is handled just like those in previous phases.
Once the betting is done, the dealer must reveal his hand to the player. The player can fold his hand, if he knows he's beat, without revealing his secret tiles to the dealer, or, if the player knows that he will win, he can reveal his secret hand, declare his hand's rank (proving what he says by showing the secret tiles) and take the pot.
This completes a hand of Mud Puddle.
Not all gamblers know this, but the game is named for a Zamorian saying, "One must step through the mud puddle to find riches." It means that one must work hard and endure strife in order to find one's way to wealth and prosperity. Among the Zamorian thieves, it means that one must be willing to get dirty (pull off a dangerous job) in order to gain the prizes.
Among the Zamorian thieves, the game is sometimes referred to as "Fence," although no thief would ever describe the game that way in mixed company. What the multitude of Mud Puddle gamblers don't know is that the game originated in ancient Zamora, long before the Hyborian Age. It is said that the game is based on a Khitian game that found its way to ancient Zamora along the trade routes. Zamorian thieves took to the game not only as a way to gamble, but also as a way to fence their stolen goods. You see, the thieves would play Mud Puddle with patrons at a tavern, preferably with travelers. If the thief won, he would pocket the coin. If he lost, he would offer to pay his opponent fairly, with coin, or the thief would give his opponent the option of forgoing the payment and taking some stolen object offered by the thief. This works best when the thief offers an object of more value than the coin that the thief would have paid to the other player--the thief getting better value on his item than he would at his usual fence. Thieves good at this would sometimes not only kept their gambling losses when fencing items this way but also would convince their opponent that the offered item was worth more than what was owed to the player, having the opponent accept the item and pay the thief some extra coin! When a thief does a good job fencing his stolen items through playing the game, he'll refer to it, among other thieves only, as, "pulling his opponent through the mud."
Mention above is the note that Mud Puddle is usually played with one dealer and one player. The reason for this is not only because there are not enough cards in a Puddle deck to accommodate multiple players (and some decks are incomplete but still used), but the game evolved that way because it allows a thief to focus on one person, working on him, in order to get the best deal he can for his stolen goods.
The game became a favorite in Zamora first. Then, as the Hyborian kingdoms birthed itself across the continent, Mud Puddle traveled along the trade routes to most parts of the known world, played by traveling thieves, caravan guards, mercenaries, bandits, and gamblers.
A Mud Puddle deck is a set of tiles with images and designs carved on one side (not unlike the Majhong pic above). Tiles are of different sizes but usually about the size of half a man's hand. The tiles themselves are typically made of lacquered and fired brick or carved from lacquered wood. More expensive decks are made of etched and polished stone. Brick, wood, ivory, and granite are popular materials. A deck will typically have a hole drilled on one end so that a leather cord can be submitted through the hold to carry all the tiles. When in play, the tiles are removed from the leather loop and placed face down on the table in the pool, in between the dealer and the player, then washed, as described above. Sometimes, and odd deck will be used where the values of the tiles are different from that shown on a standard deck, but the game is played the same way. Also, some players insist that the dealer and player switch back and forth each hand so that the same gambler doesn't bet first every time.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
MUD PUDDLE
In A NUTSHELL
1. Only two players play. The tiles are placed face down between the two gamblers and are washed. That is, the tiles are mixed up randomly by the dealer. The center between the two gamblers is called the pool. An ante bet, called the "Post", is paid to the pool by both gamblers so that they have some stake in the game before the tiles are dealt. Tiles are referred to as "Tiles" or "Logs."
2. The player selects one tile from the pool. Then the dealer selects a tile. The player then selects a second tile to complete his beginning hand. And, the dealer draws last a tile to make his hand. The gamblers keep the value of these tiles secret.
3. The first betting round is made, starting with the player. Each gambler can pass, bet, fold, or raise a bet given him. Folding is referred to as "Drowning your hand."
4. The player selects a tile from the pool and places it face up in front of him. The dealer does the same. Gamblers can estimate each other's hands by looking at the open tiles and studying their opponent's play. Logs have two values, one at each end, and a gambler doesn't have to declare which value on each tile he will use until the end of the game.
5. The second betting round is made, and it is completed just as described above in step 3.
6. Each gambler selects a second open log and places it in front of him. This is done exactly as described in step 4.
7. The final betting round is made, and it is completed exactly as described in step 3.
8. Here, at the end of the game, the dealer must reveal his secret logs to his opponent. The player, at that point, can either fold his hand or reveal his secret logs. A total of a hand is made by a gambler choosing one value from each of his four logs, adding them together, creating a total. Logs sometimes have negative values as well as positive values. The winner of the hand takes the bets that have been paid to the pool, and the winning hand is made from the highest value shown except in one instance. The ultimate hand in Mud Puddle is a hand that totals exactly zero. A hand totaling zero is called a "Puddle" (Called a "Lake" or an "Ocean" in some parts of the world). Make a puddle, and you win the game.
9. In the case of a tie, the money that has been paid to the puddle stays in the puddle, and a new hand is dealt without posting an ante bet. This procedure is repeated until one of the two gamblers wins the hand.
In A NUTSHELL
1. Only two players play. The tiles are placed face down between the two gamblers and are washed. That is, the tiles are mixed up randomly by the dealer. The center between the two gamblers is called the pool. An ante bet, called the "Post", is paid to the pool by both gamblers so that they have some stake in the game before the tiles are dealt. Tiles are referred to as "Tiles" or "Logs."
2. The player selects one tile from the pool. Then the dealer selects a tile. The player then selects a second tile to complete his beginning hand. And, the dealer draws last a tile to make his hand. The gamblers keep the value of these tiles secret.
3. The first betting round is made, starting with the player. Each gambler can pass, bet, fold, or raise a bet given him. Folding is referred to as "Drowning your hand."
4. The player selects a tile from the pool and places it face up in front of him. The dealer does the same. Gamblers can estimate each other's hands by looking at the open tiles and studying their opponent's play. Logs have two values, one at each end, and a gambler doesn't have to declare which value on each tile he will use until the end of the game.
5. The second betting round is made, and it is completed just as described above in step 3.
6. Each gambler selects a second open log and places it in front of him. This is done exactly as described in step 4.
7. The final betting round is made, and it is completed exactly as described in step 3.
8. Here, at the end of the game, the dealer must reveal his secret logs to his opponent. The player, at that point, can either fold his hand or reveal his secret logs. A total of a hand is made by a gambler choosing one value from each of his four logs, adding them together, creating a total. Logs sometimes have negative values as well as positive values. The winner of the hand takes the bets that have been paid to the pool, and the winning hand is made from the highest value shown except in one instance. The ultimate hand in Mud Puddle is a hand that totals exactly zero. A hand totaling zero is called a "Puddle" (Called a "Lake" or an "Ocean" in some parts of the world). Make a puddle, and you win the game.
9. In the case of a tie, the money that has been paid to the puddle stays in the puddle, and a new hand is dealt without posting an ante bet. This procedure is repeated until one of the two gamblers wins the hand.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
HOW TO PLAY MUD PUDDLE DURING A GAME SESSION!
1. The two gamblers are usually a PC and the GM playing an NPC. Both gamblers post the ante bet (called the "Post").
2. Each character rolls 1d12 and keeps the result secret (thus, starting hands are valued at 1-12). This represents the value of the dealing hand. Both characters can bet, starting with the PC.
3. At any phase, either character (or both of them) can attempt to read his opponent. This is done by the reader making a Sense Motive check, where the other character opposes the rolls with a Bluff check. The Sense Motive check is made in the open, but the Bluff check is made in secret with a +5 bonus because it's not an easy process to get a read on another gambler.
If the Sense Motive check succeeds, then that gamer can ask the other a Yes or No question stated exactly like this, "Is your hand X or less/more?"
The question must be answered truthfully (Yes or No) if the Sense Motive check is successful. If the Sense Motive check fails. then the opposite gamer can tell the truth or lie in his Yes or No answer.
If a Sense Motive check succeeds, then the gamer can make one Read check in each of the next phases, but if a Sense Motive check fails, then the character is not allowed to make another Read task during this hand.
4. Each character rolls 2d6 out in the open. This represents the two values of the tile drawn by the character. A character can use either die, but not both, to add to his hand. Even numbers are added to the hand. Odd numbers are subtracted from the hand. A hand in the negative numbers is considered as a value of zero. After the dice rolls is made for each character, there is a betting round.
5. Another 2d6 is thrown in the open for each character to represent the second draw. Keep this 2d6 throw separate from the previous 2d6 throw made in step 4. A character can make his final hand by adding his secret d12 roll to 1d6 from each pair.
There is a final betting round.
6. The dealer character (the GM) must reveal his secret d12 and declare which of the two d6 he is using to complete his hand. Remember, even numbers on the d6 dice add to the hand while odd numbers are subtracted from the hand. The player character (playing the PC) does not have to reveal his secret d12. He can drown and lose the hand. Or, he can reveal his secret d12 and declare which of the two d6 he is using to complete his hand.
7. The character with the highest total wins the hand unless the other character can make his total exactly zero--which is the highest hand in the game.
8. In the case of a tie, the money in the pool is left (and considered the Post for the new hand), and a new hand is dealt. Hands are played until a winner takes the hand.
1. The two gamblers are usually a PC and the GM playing an NPC. Both gamblers post the ante bet (called the "Post").
2. Each character rolls 1d12 and keeps the result secret (thus, starting hands are valued at 1-12). This represents the value of the dealing hand. Both characters can bet, starting with the PC.
3. At any phase, either character (or both of them) can attempt to read his opponent. This is done by the reader making a Sense Motive check, where the other character opposes the rolls with a Bluff check. The Sense Motive check is made in the open, but the Bluff check is made in secret with a +5 bonus because it's not an easy process to get a read on another gambler.
If the Sense Motive check succeeds, then that gamer can ask the other a Yes or No question stated exactly like this, "Is your hand X or less/more?"
The question must be answered truthfully (Yes or No) if the Sense Motive check is successful. If the Sense Motive check fails. then the opposite gamer can tell the truth or lie in his Yes or No answer.
If a Sense Motive check succeeds, then the gamer can make one Read check in each of the next phases, but if a Sense Motive check fails, then the character is not allowed to make another Read task during this hand.
4. Each character rolls 2d6 out in the open. This represents the two values of the tile drawn by the character. A character can use either die, but not both, to add to his hand. Even numbers are added to the hand. Odd numbers are subtracted from the hand. A hand in the negative numbers is considered as a value of zero. After the dice rolls is made for each character, there is a betting round.
5. Another 2d6 is thrown in the open for each character to represent the second draw. Keep this 2d6 throw separate from the previous 2d6 throw made in step 4. A character can make his final hand by adding his secret d12 roll to 1d6 from each pair.
There is a final betting round.
6. The dealer character (the GM) must reveal his secret d12 and declare which of the two d6 he is using to complete his hand. Remember, even numbers on the d6 dice add to the hand while odd numbers are subtracted from the hand. The player character (playing the PC) does not have to reveal his secret d12. He can drown and lose the hand. Or, he can reveal his secret d12 and declare which of the two d6 he is using to complete his hand.
7. The character with the highest total wins the hand unless the other character can make his total exactly zero--which is the highest hand in the game.
8. In the case of a tie, the money in the pool is left (and considered the Post for the new hand), and a new hand is dealt. Hands are played until a winner takes the hand.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- MUD PUDDLE HAND RANKS --
0 = The highest hand, but must be made by exact count. This is called a puddle.
0 = The lowest hand, made by negative cards rendering the hand total to less than zero.
24 = The second highest hand, made with a 12 on the secret tiles (the secret d12) and a 6 on each of the open tiles (the open 2d6 pairs).
1-23 = The ranked other hands possible in the game, made by the secret tiles (the secret d12) and each of the two open tiles (the two open 2d6 pairs, taking one value from each pair), where even numbers add to the hand total and odd numbers subtract from the hand's total.
0 = The highest hand, but must be made by exact count. This is called a puddle.
0 = The lowest hand, made by negative cards rendering the hand total to less than zero.
24 = The second highest hand, made with a 12 on the secret tiles (the secret d12) and a 6 on each of the open tiles (the open 2d6 pairs).
1-23 = The ranked other hands possible in the game, made by the secret tiles (the secret d12) and each of the two open tiles (the two open 2d6 pairs, taking one value from each pair), where even numbers add to the hand total and odd numbers subtract from the hand's total.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- QUICK NPCs DURING A GAME --
The various d20 3.5 games are sometimes criticized for being too time consuming for the GM when it comes to creating NPCs for a game. In this post, I'm going to detail a couple tricks that will help you create a character without skipping a beat. You'll have whatever you need for any impromptu roleplaying encounter.
How does it typically happen?
You are rolling along, playing the game, describing what a character sees. "It's a crowded marketplace. There are carts and veiled stalls. Smoke from incense, meat cooking on open grills, fresh fruit, and just caught fish all assault your nose. From the looks of things, you can buy just about anything."
A player might ask you to be more detailed about something. "Do I see anybody that doesn't look like he belongs--somebody that's probably not from the city?"
You smile and quickly answer, "It's a cosmopolitan place. People from all over crowd this area on market day."
"I'm looking for an obviously foreign caravan guard," the player says. "I'll take my time and survey the place. Do I see anybody that raises my eyebrow?"
Just off the top of your head, you keep roleplaying, making it up as you go, "Yeah, you do. A Hyrkanian." You just describe whatever comes to you. His head is shaved except for a top knot. He wears a split mustache and had long chin hair. His body is littered with homespun garments and iron studded leather. There's a sword on his hip, but in both hands he carries a greataxe.
"Well, I'll approach him." And, just like that, you've created a new character for your game--well, as least you've described one. Many times, the roleplay that follows requires no stats. But, sometimes...sometimes. You need to know more about this character.
"What! That's an insult! I'm going to slap his face!"
Thus, now, we're throwing initiative for a fist fight that might turn into something more dangerous. And, you need some quick stats for this Hyrkanian that you've just created.
I'm going to tell you right here that your goal is to come up with something quick, on the spot, and keep the game running. Save the details for later. All that you're going to create here is some stats. If you need Initiative, then you create that. If you need hit points, then you quickly create that. You only create what you need. You don't worry about fine details like racial bonuses or negatives. You just need something to use right now, this instant. Chances are, the PCs will never encounter this character again. But, if he becomes something in your game, then take the time between game sessions to flesh him out. But, that's for the time in between sessions. Right now, you need bare basics and to keep on rolling.
STATS: Use the common array, which is 13 - 12 - 11 - 10 - 9 - 8. Arrange to taste. That's perfect. That gives you a very average character with two stats with a +1 bonus, two stats at no bonus, and two stats with a -1 penalty.
Think quick, and scratch down the six attributes. Where the character specializes, you'll use the 13 and 12. The two least important stats get the 9 and 8. And, the other two are dead-on average, with a 10 and 11.
That might be all you need.
But, if you need something else, then pick whatever come to mind and keep the game rolling. Give him level. Give him average hit points (full at 1st, and half die for each level after that, plus any CON bonus if you assigned a 13-12, or 8-9 to CON).
SKILLS? Assigning skill points is probably the most time consuming aspects of the d20 character creation system. Here, you just need to decide that if a skill is important to the character. If it's not, then don't improve it. Assume the skill does not have skill points in it. If it is important to the character, then assign max skill points to it (level + 3).
And, you're done.
FEATS? Don't worry about picking a Feat. This can also be time consuming. My advice is to not worry about a Feat unless one appropriate quickly comes to you. Otherwise, the Feat that the character has does not apply to the situation.
You can always pick a Feat later, if one comes to you then.
PREP: As always, a prepared GM is a good gamemaster. Try to make some generic characters before your game and always keep them on hand. Make up a commoner or two. Make up a guard, if guards are likely to be in your next game session. Or a bandit. Or...whatever you think might inter-act with the PCs.
You don't need individuals. You just need one of each type (for example, one commoner, one guard, etc), and you can use those stats more than once if you need them in your game.
If you really want to be prepared, then make up some tables with some NPCs of each type. Pickpockets. Guards. Fences. Dancing Girls. That way, you've got individual stats, a few skills, the character's level and any feats, right at your finger tips. You're prepared.
But, if haven't had time to do this, or the PCs have wandered into a area for which you were not prepared, or if the entire encounter is made up by you on the spot, then just use what I suggest above. You'll have everything you need in a thought's notice, and you can always customize later, between games, if you need to.
The various d20 3.5 games are sometimes criticized for being too time consuming for the GM when it comes to creating NPCs for a game. In this post, I'm going to detail a couple tricks that will help you create a character without skipping a beat. You'll have whatever you need for any impromptu roleplaying encounter.
How does it typically happen?
You are rolling along, playing the game, describing what a character sees. "It's a crowded marketplace. There are carts and veiled stalls. Smoke from incense, meat cooking on open grills, fresh fruit, and just caught fish all assault your nose. From the looks of things, you can buy just about anything."
A player might ask you to be more detailed about something. "Do I see anybody that doesn't look like he belongs--somebody that's probably not from the city?"
You smile and quickly answer, "It's a cosmopolitan place. People from all over crowd this area on market day."
"I'm looking for an obviously foreign caravan guard," the player says. "I'll take my time and survey the place. Do I see anybody that raises my eyebrow?"
Just off the top of your head, you keep roleplaying, making it up as you go, "Yeah, you do. A Hyrkanian." You just describe whatever comes to you. His head is shaved except for a top knot. He wears a split mustache and had long chin hair. His body is littered with homespun garments and iron studded leather. There's a sword on his hip, but in both hands he carries a greataxe.
"Well, I'll approach him." And, just like that, you've created a new character for your game--well, as least you've described one. Many times, the roleplay that follows requires no stats. But, sometimes...sometimes. You need to know more about this character.
"What! That's an insult! I'm going to slap his face!"
Thus, now, we're throwing initiative for a fist fight that might turn into something more dangerous. And, you need some quick stats for this Hyrkanian that you've just created.
I'm going to tell you right here that your goal is to come up with something quick, on the spot, and keep the game running. Save the details for later. All that you're going to create here is some stats. If you need Initiative, then you create that. If you need hit points, then you quickly create that. You only create what you need. You don't worry about fine details like racial bonuses or negatives. You just need something to use right now, this instant. Chances are, the PCs will never encounter this character again. But, if he becomes something in your game, then take the time between game sessions to flesh him out. But, that's for the time in between sessions. Right now, you need bare basics and to keep on rolling.
STATS: Use the common array, which is 13 - 12 - 11 - 10 - 9 - 8. Arrange to taste. That's perfect. That gives you a very average character with two stats with a +1 bonus, two stats at no bonus, and two stats with a -1 penalty.
Think quick, and scratch down the six attributes. Where the character specializes, you'll use the 13 and 12. The two least important stats get the 9 and 8. And, the other two are dead-on average, with a 10 and 11.
That might be all you need.
But, if you need something else, then pick whatever come to mind and keep the game rolling. Give him level. Give him average hit points (full at 1st, and half die for each level after that, plus any CON bonus if you assigned a 13-12, or 8-9 to CON).
SKILLS? Assigning skill points is probably the most time consuming aspects of the d20 character creation system. Here, you just need to decide that if a skill is important to the character. If it's not, then don't improve it. Assume the skill does not have skill points in it. If it is important to the character, then assign max skill points to it (level + 3).
And, you're done.
FEATS? Don't worry about picking a Feat. This can also be time consuming. My advice is to not worry about a Feat unless one appropriate quickly comes to you. Otherwise, the Feat that the character has does not apply to the situation.
You can always pick a Feat later, if one comes to you then.
PREP: As always, a prepared GM is a good gamemaster. Try to make some generic characters before your game and always keep them on hand. Make up a commoner or two. Make up a guard, if guards are likely to be in your next game session. Or a bandit. Or...whatever you think might inter-act with the PCs.
You don't need individuals. You just need one of each type (for example, one commoner, one guard, etc), and you can use those stats more than once if you need them in your game.
If you really want to be prepared, then make up some tables with some NPCs of each type. Pickpockets. Guards. Fences. Dancing Girls. That way, you've got individual stats, a few skills, the character's level and any feats, right at your finger tips. You're prepared.
But, if haven't had time to do this, or the PCs have wandered into a area for which you were not prepared, or if the entire encounter is made up by you on the spot, then just use what I suggest above. You'll have everything you need in a thought's notice, and you can always customize later, between games, if you need to.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- CONAN AND THE LANCE of the SERPENT --
You know what I've been thinking of for a long, long time? I've got the complete series of the 1E AD&D Dragonlance set. I've wondered what it would be like to convert it to the Hyborian Age.
It would be a grand battle--something like Black Colossus. I'd have a sorcerer--a worshipper of Set--rise up. Instead of Draconians, they'd become Snake Men. The dragons would be Sons of Set. The Solomani Knights? An ancient order of Knights from Aquilonia or Nemedia--or, maybe they'd just be a plain old mercenary company.
It would be an all-human campaign, of course, except for the Snake Men. The Dwarves would be....I don't know, maybe the Kingdom of Mountainous Ophir? The Elves would be another people, too. The Plainsmen? Easy, they're a Nomad culture. Make them Shemites.
This campaign would play across the world--a war that travels across the Hyborian Nations.
It'd be a lot of work, but it would be fun (and probably not as hard to make into an adventure for Conan's world as one might think).
You know what I've been thinking of for a long, long time? I've got the complete series of the 1E AD&D Dragonlance set. I've wondered what it would be like to convert it to the Hyborian Age.
It would be a grand battle--something like Black Colossus. I'd have a sorcerer--a worshipper of Set--rise up. Instead of Draconians, they'd become Snake Men. The dragons would be Sons of Set. The Solomani Knights? An ancient order of Knights from Aquilonia or Nemedia--or, maybe they'd just be a plain old mercenary company.
It would be an all-human campaign, of course, except for the Snake Men. The Dwarves would be....I don't know, maybe the Kingdom of Mountainous Ophir? The Elves would be another people, too. The Plainsmen? Easy, they're a Nomad culture. Make them Shemites.
This campaign would play across the world--a war that travels across the Hyborian Nations.
It'd be a lot of work, but it would be fun (and probably not as hard to make into an adventure for Conan's world as one might think).
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- HANDLING LANGUAGES in a game --
In the Conan stories, Conan never has much issue with language. There is no Common Tongue, of course, but the game is extremely liberal on the number of languages a character can learn. A 1st level character knows a minimum of three languages: His native tongue, plus his bonus racial language, plus his bonus level language. If the character has an INT modifier higher than -2, then he'll know more languages.
In the game, characters who learn a language can also read and write the language. The rule for non-literate characters is provided in the section on Commoners. Those who are illiterate can become literate by spending two skill points.
I'm going to expand upon those rules by just a little bit. Keep reading.
KNOWLEDGE (Languages): This is a new skill that characters can improve. They can use it to make several types of rolls when it comes to communication. This skill covers everything the character knows about any language he is exposed to. Use only one skill--you don't need a new skill for every specific language.
LANGUAGE DC: The GM should apply a DC to every language used in his game. Some languages are harder to master than others. For example, a character's native language would be Very Easy (DC 0). A language for which the character has a lot of exposure might be Easy (5+). A language that is common to the character might be Average (10+), and so on.
Reading or writing a language is one step harder than speaking the language. Thus, given the above, a character's native language is Very Easy (DC 0) to speak and understand, while it is Easy to Read and Write. A language for which the character has a lot of exposure would be Easy (5+) to speak and understand but Average to read and write. A common language to the character might be Average (10+) to speak and understand and Tough (15+) to read and write. And so on.
When a character tries to understand someone speaking a language, he simply makes a Knowledge (Languages) check at the appropriate difficulty. If the character knows the language (the language is listed in his known languages list), then use the Advantaged rule and give the character a +2 modifier on the check. If a character needs to read or write the language, then make the exact same check (or substitute Decipher Languages for the skill).
Remember the Take 10 and Take 20 rule. A character will automatically speak, understand, read and write any language where the difficulty is equal to or less than the character's Knowledge (Languages) Take 10 result. No need to roll.
In order to Take 20, the character must be able to spend the appropriate time with the work (usually used with Reading and Writing). He's a slow reader/writer of the language.
One throw usually covers an entire conversation. The GM, if he wants, can throw in modifiers for think accents, dialects, or versions of the same language (for example, Legal Court speak is probably a lot harder to grasp than the common language spoken in the streets).
If a character doesn't have Knowledge (Languages) improved, then the player uses his INT attribute normally for all the character's known languages. Even though the skill is improved, the character is considered "trained" with the language. For languages not on the character's list, Knowledge (Languages) must be trained if a throw is to count for more than 10 per the rules.
You'll see that the rules above are very forgiving and will not create language barriers too often. Most likely, when a language barrier does appear, the two characters will just switch to a language that both characters know.
These rules should give some structure to the game rules and not hamper play. The rules are designed to allow, from time to time, a barrier in language making an interpreter important. Characters who speak a lot of languages will have an edge over others, and they'll be favored due to their skill.
In the Conan stories, Conan never has much issue with language. There is no Common Tongue, of course, but the game is extremely liberal on the number of languages a character can learn. A 1st level character knows a minimum of three languages: His native tongue, plus his bonus racial language, plus his bonus level language. If the character has an INT modifier higher than -2, then he'll know more languages.
In the game, characters who learn a language can also read and write the language. The rule for non-literate characters is provided in the section on Commoners. Those who are illiterate can become literate by spending two skill points.
I'm going to expand upon those rules by just a little bit. Keep reading.
KNOWLEDGE (Languages): This is a new skill that characters can improve. They can use it to make several types of rolls when it comes to communication. This skill covers everything the character knows about any language he is exposed to. Use only one skill--you don't need a new skill for every specific language.
LANGUAGE DC: The GM should apply a DC to every language used in his game. Some languages are harder to master than others. For example, a character's native language would be Very Easy (DC 0). A language for which the character has a lot of exposure might be Easy (5+). A language that is common to the character might be Average (10+), and so on.
Reading or writing a language is one step harder than speaking the language. Thus, given the above, a character's native language is Very Easy (DC 0) to speak and understand, while it is Easy to Read and Write. A language for which the character has a lot of exposure would be Easy (5+) to speak and understand but Average to read and write. A common language to the character might be Average (10+) to speak and understand and Tough (15+) to read and write. And so on.
When a character tries to understand someone speaking a language, he simply makes a Knowledge (Languages) check at the appropriate difficulty. If the character knows the language (the language is listed in his known languages list), then use the Advantaged rule and give the character a +2 modifier on the check. If a character needs to read or write the language, then make the exact same check (or substitute Decipher Languages for the skill).
Remember the Take 10 and Take 20 rule. A character will automatically speak, understand, read and write any language where the difficulty is equal to or less than the character's Knowledge (Languages) Take 10 result. No need to roll.
In order to Take 20, the character must be able to spend the appropriate time with the work (usually used with Reading and Writing). He's a slow reader/writer of the language.
One throw usually covers an entire conversation. The GM, if he wants, can throw in modifiers for think accents, dialects, or versions of the same language (for example, Legal Court speak is probably a lot harder to grasp than the common language spoken in the streets).
If a character doesn't have Knowledge (Languages) improved, then the player uses his INT attribute normally for all the character's known languages. Even though the skill is improved, the character is considered "trained" with the language. For languages not on the character's list, Knowledge (Languages) must be trained if a throw is to count for more than 10 per the rules.
You'll see that the rules above are very forgiving and will not create language barriers too often. Most likely, when a language barrier does appear, the two characters will just switch to a language that both characters know.
These rules should give some structure to the game rules and not hamper play. The rules are designed to allow, from time to time, a barrier in language making an interpreter important. Characters who speak a lot of languages will have an edge over others, and they'll be favored due to their skill.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- LANGUAGES SUMMARY --
1. KNOWLEDGE (Languages) is the skill used to determine whether a character understands a foreign speaker. It is also used for reading and writing a foreign tongue. Decipher Script can be substituted for the skill for reading/writing only. A character is considered "trained" with the skill, even if the skill is not improved, for every language in the character's known language list.
2. The GM should assign a difficulty to each language. Reading or writing the language is 5 points more difficult. The character gains a +2 Advantaged bonus to any check to speak, understand, read or write a language on the character's known language list. One check is usually sufficient for one conversation. Re-tries are possible as this represents the two characters taking longer while trying to communicate.
3. Take 10 with Knowledge (Languages), with the +2 advantaged modifier included, will show the GM which languages require a skill check. For these languages, the character is considered fluent.
4. Take 20 is available in many circumstances if the character has extra time to devote to understanding the language in question.
1. KNOWLEDGE (Languages) is the skill used to determine whether a character understands a foreign speaker. It is also used for reading and writing a foreign tongue. Decipher Script can be substituted for the skill for reading/writing only. A character is considered "trained" with the skill, even if the skill is not improved, for every language in the character's known language list.
2. The GM should assign a difficulty to each language. Reading or writing the language is 5 points more difficult. The character gains a +2 Advantaged bonus to any check to speak, understand, read or write a language on the character's known language list. One check is usually sufficient for one conversation. Re-tries are possible as this represents the two characters taking longer while trying to communicate.
3. Take 10 with Knowledge (Languages), with the +2 advantaged modifier included, will show the GM which languages require a skill check. For these languages, the character is considered fluent.
4. Take 20 is available in many circumstances if the character has extra time to devote to understanding the language in question.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- LANGUAGES EXAMPLE --
The example character is Whisper Reno, the Argossean Information Broker. It's important to this character's business to be able to communicate. You can find the full character up the thread a bit.
Whisper Reno
1st level Argossean Thief
INT: 17 (+3)
LANGUAGES: Argossean (native), Shemitish, Zingaran, Stygian, Aquilonian, Kothic, Ophirean, Pictish.
For this character, Knowledge (Lanagues) is not improved, but the character is still considered trained with the skill in each of the languages on Whisper's list. Furthermore, Whisper gets a +2 bonus when attempting any language related task.
-- Argossean --
This is the character's native tongue. It's a Very Easy (DC 0+) to speak with or understand other characters speaking this language. Reading or Writing Argossean is an Easy (DC 5+) task.
Take 10 value: 15. Whispher can easily conduct business in Argossean and doesn't need to roll a check unless, through penalties, the DC is somehow raised to 16+. This would be a rare instance, indeed.
-- Shemitish, Zingaran, Stygian, Aquilonian, Kothic, and Ophirean --
These are all common languages that the information broker encounters. It's Easy (5+) to speak or understand these languages. Reading or Writing them is an Average (10+) task.
Since Whisper's Take 10 value is 15, he won't need to throw a task. He can speak, understand, and read/write any of these languages.
-- Pictish --
The GM has decided that this is not a common language for the character. Thus, it is an Average (10+) to speak. Pictish runes and scratches are hard to read and write, so the GM assigns a Tough (15+) difficulty to it, then raises it by 2 points (because he thinks it appropriate). So, reading/writing Pictish requires a 17+ task.
Whisper's Take 10 value is 15, so speaking or listening to Pictish is not a problem for the character. The Take 10 value does not cover the difficulty to read or write Pictish, though. So, Whisper must roll a task when he needs to read/write the language.
Since he has not improved Knowledge (Languages), he'll throw 1d20 + 5 to interpret any Pictish writings. He gets a +3 from his INT score and a +2 Advantage bonus because the language is one of his known languages.
But...Whisper has the Decipher Script skill at +7, which means that he'll use that skill to read or write Pictish. He'll throw 1d20 +7, looking for 17+, when he tries to read or write Pictish.
-- Zamorian --
The ancient tongue of Zamora comes from the land on the far side of the continent from Argos. Yet, Zamora is a heavy trading kingdom. The GM decides that the language is Average for Whisper to speak (Tough to read).
That means Whisper needs a 10+ to speak or understand and a 15+ to read or write.
In this case, the language is not in the character's known language list. Therefore, the character is not considered "trained" with respect to the Knowledge (Languages) skill. By the rules, the character can only roll 10 or less on non-trained skills that require training. In addition, Whispher does not receive the +2 Advantaged bonus.
The Take 10 for Whisper is 13, but since this is a non-trained skill, that is reduced to 10.
This means that Whisper can speak and understand Zamorians well, but he cannot read or write the language (the difficulty is 15+, and Whisper cannot roll higher than 10). But, Whispher is trained with Decipher Script. His Take 10 using that skill is 17. Therefore, Whisper can use that skill to read/write Zamorian.
The example character is Whisper Reno, the Argossean Information Broker. It's important to this character's business to be able to communicate. You can find the full character up the thread a bit.
Whisper Reno
1st level Argossean Thief
INT: 17 (+3)
LANGUAGES: Argossean (native), Shemitish, Zingaran, Stygian, Aquilonian, Kothic, Ophirean, Pictish.
For this character, Knowledge (Lanagues) is not improved, but the character is still considered trained with the skill in each of the languages on Whisper's list. Furthermore, Whisper gets a +2 bonus when attempting any language related task.
-- Argossean --
This is the character's native tongue. It's a Very Easy (DC 0+) to speak with or understand other characters speaking this language. Reading or Writing Argossean is an Easy (DC 5+) task.
Take 10 value: 15. Whispher can easily conduct business in Argossean and doesn't need to roll a check unless, through penalties, the DC is somehow raised to 16+. This would be a rare instance, indeed.
-- Shemitish, Zingaran, Stygian, Aquilonian, Kothic, and Ophirean --
These are all common languages that the information broker encounters. It's Easy (5+) to speak or understand these languages. Reading or Writing them is an Average (10+) task.
Since Whisper's Take 10 value is 15, he won't need to throw a task. He can speak, understand, and read/write any of these languages.
-- Pictish --
The GM has decided that this is not a common language for the character. Thus, it is an Average (10+) to speak. Pictish runes and scratches are hard to read and write, so the GM assigns a Tough (15+) difficulty to it, then raises it by 2 points (because he thinks it appropriate). So, reading/writing Pictish requires a 17+ task.
Whisper's Take 10 value is 15, so speaking or listening to Pictish is not a problem for the character. The Take 10 value does not cover the difficulty to read or write Pictish, though. So, Whisper must roll a task when he needs to read/write the language.
Since he has not improved Knowledge (Languages), he'll throw 1d20 + 5 to interpret any Pictish writings. He gets a +3 from his INT score and a +2 Advantage bonus because the language is one of his known languages.
But...Whisper has the Decipher Script skill at +7, which means that he'll use that skill to read or write Pictish. He'll throw 1d20 +7, looking for 17+, when he tries to read or write Pictish.
-- Zamorian --
The ancient tongue of Zamora comes from the land on the far side of the continent from Argos. Yet, Zamora is a heavy trading kingdom. The GM decides that the language is Average for Whisper to speak (Tough to read).
That means Whisper needs a 10+ to speak or understand and a 15+ to read or write.
In this case, the language is not in the character's known language list. Therefore, the character is not considered "trained" with respect to the Knowledge (Languages) skill. By the rules, the character can only roll 10 or less on non-trained skills that require training. In addition, Whispher does not receive the +2 Advantaged bonus.
The Take 10 for Whisper is 13, but since this is a non-trained skill, that is reduced to 10.
This means that Whisper can speak and understand Zamorians well, but he cannot read or write the language (the difficulty is 15+, and Whisper cannot roll higher than 10). But, Whispher is trained with Decipher Script. His Take 10 using that skill is 17. Therefore, Whisper can use that skill to read/write Zamorian.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- Customize Your Languages --
If what I've written above doesn't work for you, then customize the numbers to something tat does.
Instead of what I have above, maybe try this...
If what I've written above doesn't work for you, then customize the numbers to something tat does.
Instead of what I have above, maybe try this...
Code:
Native Language DC 5 Read/Write DC 7
Common Language DC 10 Read/Write DC 12
Other Language DC 15 Read/Write DC 17Supplement Four
Mongoose
LANGUAGES: The GM should assign a difficulty rating to every language the character attempts to use or understand. Make the difficulty for reading or writing the language two points harder.
Native Tongue: DC 5+/7+. A common language for the character: DC 10+/12+. The GM should adjust for uncommon languages, dialects, accents, and the like.
Knowledge (Languages) is the skill used to make a check to understand a language. Decipher Script can be substituted for reading/writing only.
The character is considered trained with the skill, even if he has never improved the skill, with any language in the character’s known language list. In addition, the character receives a +2 modifier when making any checks.
Fluency: A character is considered fluent in the language when his Take 10 value is higher than the DC needed to understand a language. A character can only be fluent in the languages he knows.
Native Tongue: DC 5+/7+. A common language for the character: DC 10+/12+. The GM should adjust for uncommon languages, dialects, accents, and the like.
Knowledge (Languages) is the skill used to make a check to understand a language. Decipher Script can be substituted for reading/writing only.
The character is considered trained with the skill, even if he has never improved the skill, with any language in the character’s known language list. In addition, the character receives a +2 modifier when making any checks.
Fluency: A character is considered fluent in the language when his Take 10 value is higher than the DC needed to understand a language. A character can only be fluent in the languages he knows.
Code:
DC 5+ Native Tongue - Understand/Speak
DC 7+ Native Tongue - Read/Write
DC 10+ Common Language - Understand/Speak
DC 12+ Common Language - Read/Write
DC 15+ Uncommon Language - Understand/Speak
DC 17+ Uncommon Language - Read/WriteSupplement Four
Mongoose
-- SEL'YUEESE --
The Sel'Yueese are a vicious tribe of savages living in the blasted lands on the border of Argos and Shem. They are nomads that raid the weaker border towns looking for food, horses, livestock, steel weapons, and other supplies. They are known to take women, or anything else they need, from wherever they can get it, and they have no qualms of leaving a butchered family in their wake.
The Argosseans refer to these raiders as The Yue. It's a derogatory term that likens all Sel'Yueese as women--a great insult to the male dominated culture.
The Sel'Yueese are worshipers of the Shemite god Anu, forming a fanatical sect of the religion.
For game purposes, Sel'Yueese are racially Shemites and classed as Nomads.
The Sel'Yueese are a vicious tribe of savages living in the blasted lands on the border of Argos and Shem. They are nomads that raid the weaker border towns looking for food, horses, livestock, steel weapons, and other supplies. They are known to take women, or anything else they need, from wherever they can get it, and they have no qualms of leaving a butchered family in their wake.
The Argosseans refer to these raiders as The Yue. It's a derogatory term that likens all Sel'Yueese as women--a great insult to the male dominated culture.
The Sel'Yueese are worshipers of the Shemite god Anu, forming a fanatical sect of the religion.
For game purposes, Sel'Yueese are racially Shemites and classed as Nomads.
Supplement Four
Mongoose
-- SEL'YUEESE --
NOTE: The sacrificial dagger, made of bull's horn, at the waist.
The Sel'Yueese are a vicious tribe of savages living in the blasted lands on the border of Argos and Shem. They are nomads that raid the weaker border towns looking for food, horses, livestock, steel weapons, and other supplies. They are known to take women, or anything else they need, from wherever they can get it, and they have no qualms of leaving a butchered family in their wake.
The Argosseans refer to these raiders as The Yue. It's a derogatory term that likens all Sel'Yueese as women--a great insult to the male dominated culture.
The Sel'Yueese are worshipers of the Shemite god Anu, forming a fanatical sect of the religion.
For game purposes, Sel'Yueese are racially Shemites and classed as Nomads.
NOTE: The sacrificial dagger, made of bull's horn, at the waist.
The Sel'Yueese are a vicious tribe of savages living in the blasted lands on the border of Argos and Shem. They are nomads that raid the weaker border towns looking for food, horses, livestock, steel weapons, and other supplies. They are known to take women, or anything else they need, from wherever they can get it, and they have no qualms of leaving a butchered family in their wake.
The Argosseans refer to these raiders as The Yue. It's a derogatory term that likens all Sel'Yueese as women--a great insult to the male dominated culture.
The Sel'Yueese are worshipers of the Shemite god Anu, forming a fanatical sect of the religion.
For game purposes, Sel'Yueese are racially Shemites and classed as Nomads.
Similar threads
