Alternative Vehicles

klingsor

Mongoose
I am sure the official vehicles are going to be very nice and very reasonably priced but for cheapskates, diehard individualists and those who want a little more variety or just who just want to steal a march on Mongoose here are a few other suggestions.


Vehicles for 25mm Wargaming
Also some larger scales as well such as 1/48th.

Forget what they say about scale. 25mm figures are huge, only old figures and a few die-hard companies figures are close to true 25mm scale now, most are 30mm+ in height and still growing.
The closest scales for 25mm figures are 1/50th for diecast vehicles and Games Workshop’s kits [1] and 1/48th for aircraft and armour models. O gauge in America is 1/48th scale but in Britain 1/43rd scale [2] and some vehicle kits are available in this scale.

Models
Aircraft
There are a lot of aircraft kits in 1/48th scale but they tend to be very big – aircraft are surprisingly big. The largest are probably the various C-130 variants by Italeri or the old B-29 by Revell/Monogram. However cheap ones are useful for wreckage. For wargaming there is a good selection of helicopters including Hueys for Vietnam and UH-60s for Mogadishu. Academy also do the Hughes 500 which makes a Little Bird with a bit of work. There is an Italeri V-22 bit it is huge. For your drug-running scenarios Revell do three very nice executive jets.

Armour and Softskins
Tamya 1/48th Armour
Tamiya has recently introduced a range of 1/48th WW II armour kits. They are expensive but very detailed and really a bit too costly and delicate for wargaming. This is a very important series that should set off a new boom in 1/48th scale armour kits.
However they also do kubelwagens and kettenkrads which are very useful.
There are accessory sets such as Jerry cans and sandbags that will be essential.
There are also older Tamiya 1/48th scale kits of modern armour that were recently re-released but these were old moulds of motorised models.

Academy
Academy do several modern and WW II tanks. They are motorised with a variety of control options that do little but put the price up. They vary in quality. They are simple but the WW II ones at least have vaguely running gear. The modern ones have quite simplified detail but are good enough.

Airfix/Heller
This is a very old range of 1/43rd scale cars. The cars are mostly old and French but there are some new models as well. The star of the range is a Landover which is an excellent basis for conversion to a technical whether for Somalis or Orks. The wheels are terrible though and will need to be replaced.

Heller 1/48th or 1/43rd scale trucks
These are a completely different style to the Junior kits. They are ‘proper’ kits, more like a scaled down version of a 1/25th scale truck kit – in fact it might be so as the mould masters are pantographed down from a much larger model.
There are some four different models in the range; three articulated lorries with 40’ box vans and a tow truck – though it uses the same chassis and cab as one of the tractor units.
They are cheaper than diecast trucks and a lot more flexible – easy to convert to a Mad Max style vehicle or whatever you desire.

Airfix/Heller Junior
This range of kits is intended as an introduction to plastic modelling. The vehicles are very simple and ‘exciting’ with play an important consideration. However once you look past that there are some kits in the ranges that are very useful to the wargamer.

The three ranges that I am aware of are:
Military: two armoured cars, helicopter, boat, light aircraft and a landrover.
Safari: landrover, light aircraft
Truckers: cement mixer and skip transporter.

The downside of the kits is:
1. They are moulded in a strange plastic, though it does accept normal glues and can be worked with.
2. They are ‘snap together’ kits though there is really only one place this is annoyingly apparent – unfortunately on the APCs it s the very tip of the bow.
3. Detail is very crude and sparse. Just think of it as an opportunity for scrathbuilding.
4. They are out of production. However they seem easy enough to find.

The best two are around 1/48th scale, the Gladiator and the?? Which share many common parts. They are modelled on a French wheeled armoured car/armoured personnel carrier. One model builds as a four-wheeled vehicle with a turret mounting two missiles, the other as a six-wheeler with a long barrelled cannon. The hulls and wheels of both are identical, only the number of wheels and the turrets differ, there are ‘blanking plates’ supplied with the missile turret that fill in the gaps left by the missing wheels.
Other kits in the range include a boat, aircraft and helicopter though I have not bought any of these and cannot comment on them. The landrover is large, it seems closer to 1/35th scale than 1/48th though it does come with a useful looking inflatable.
The two trucks are identical save for the loads. They seem slightly larger than 1/50th scale but not by too much and would serve for 25mm scale especially if they are your only trucks. What I did was to sratchbuild a normal open body for the load bed, a very easy job using plasticard and add a grille to the front. They would be especially useful to an Ork player in Warhammer 40,000 as a basis for a wartruck.

Hobby Boss
The range consists of various models of M4 Sherman, T-34s (76 and 85) and a LCM 3 landing craft. These are good, in the case of the T-34s very, very good indeed with full interior detail. The M4s are supposed to have some accuracy issues but no more than most model kits. The LCM is nice but has a full hull.

Zengdefu/Ki-Tech Tank and APC Kits
These all have a common motorised chassis and the hulls are sized to fit this so the APCs are too big and all the tanks are the same size. If you can live with this they are a cheap and convenient source of modern tanks. Usefully they do French and Japanese models that are not immediately recognisable by most people – though the AMX-30 is a strong candidate for the ugliest tank ever made the LeClerc is superb, it already looks strange and futuristic.

Zengdefu/Ki-Tech BTR and Bradley Kits
Again these four vehicles share a common motorised chassis that seems to be closer to the Bradley’s than the BTR. Nice and useful. You could increase variety by leaving off an axle or even shortening the vehicle down to a two–axle scout.

Bandai Frug/Fuman Kits
These were a range of lovely and very detaile kits of WW II armour including some odd subjects such as an 8.8cm flak gun but they are now out of production and increasingly rare and expensive. Probably worth keeping unbuilt as collectors items though allegedly they are to be re-released shortly.

1/35th Vehicle Kits
For fantasy or SF gaming these can be useful. Some smaller tanks are about the right size while larger ones make a good basis for a supertank – I am attempting to build a Baneblade on the chassis of an M1 Abrahms.
Artillery vehicles can be robbed of their guns for static mounts or railway guns if you are ambitious and the hulls and running gear reused.
Academy do a nice series of cheap panzer IV variants that are very useful donor kits.
I like the Italeri M-4s kits for making steam tanks but that is really a completely different topic.
All you have to watch for are things that would give the scale away.

Diecasts
There are several ranges of diecast vehicles in 1/50th scale that are suitable for wargaming. Many are intended for collectors and can be incredibly expensive but some are affordable. The most reasonably priced are probably Joal who do a great range of construction machines but also busses and trucks.
Solido/Verem do a very useful range of military vehicles and spare parts as well but their tracked vehicles have rather chunky and ugly metal tracks that put many people off, my brother on the other hand loves them because of the sound.
Most toys are a little too small though Maisto make some Humvees that are perfectly sized. These are unfortunately very hard to find in the UK. The others would suit true 25mm scale figures such as Corgis lorries, though their collectable lorries and armour are 1/50th scale and include some very useful vehicles and helicopters.

Resin Kits
I’m too mean to buy these and do not like working with resin but there are is an increasing selection available.

Conversions
1. Turrets.
Swap the turrets around or for variety add a turret from one of the Airfix junior kits or the rather pretty turret Games Workshop sells for its Rhino variants. This can be ordered separately and one of the standard options is a decent looking autocannon. The only drawback is the number of little skulls you will have to sand off.
You could even leave off the turret and make a tank destroyer, engineer or APC vehicle.

2. Weapons.
Replace the barrels with brass or plastic tubing. If nothing else it will save a lot of tiresome sanding.
Add some more weapons. Missile racks or boxes, point-defence weapons and so on. Look as the Israeli armour, you simply cannot have too many machine guns on a tank.
There are a variety of 1/35th sale sets that are well worth a look. Italeri used to produce a set of anti-aircraft weapons that included some missile launchers and some heavy machine guns that were perfect for technicals. At the moment the largest weapons readily available seem to be the Browning M2 and recoilless rifles in the Tamiya U.S. Infantry Weapons Set (#35121) or the finer Academy American Machine Guns set. Though other items are available in some more expensive sets or as part of vehicle kits such as the recoilless rifle in the Academy Mutt kit.

Some 1/35th gun kits are useful as well for making artillery pieces or flak guns. I have used the Tamiya 2cm Flakverling mounted on a Chimera chassis to make a cheap SPAA vehicle.

3. Up-armouring: Schurzen and ERA
Add some side skirts made of plasticard. If nothing else they will help disguise those ugly tracks and change the appearance of the vehicle.

4. Stowage.
Nothing brings a vehicle to life quite so much as stowage. You can make your own or use some of the many 1/35th scale stowage packs. You won’t be able to use everything but a lot will work.

Notes
1. According to a GW webpage their kits are 1/50th in scale.
2. I do not know why, I am sure it made sense originally but now it is just a nuisance.
 
Actually, I bought a couple of the 1/48th Kitech/Zhengdefu LAV's, and some diecast LAV's in the same scale. The Zhengdefu ones are really much bigger than the diecast ones, they seem to be almost 1/35th scale.
 
You want 1/63rd


Scales and Compatibility

I have seen frequent requests on news groups regarding scales. There is a fairly easy way to figure scales. This allows you to figure out which scale of buildings or vehicles are suitable for which range of figures. To calculate a fractional scale such as 1/285 it is necessary to adopt a height that is usual for a man. Most figures available seem to fall into the description of taller slimmer figure. Few manufactures make short, fat riflemen for example. The figure I have settled on is 5'10" as being an average height for a soldier.

Because figure height are given in millimeters we have to convert this 5'10" to millimeters. Many figures are measured as height to top of head, some to eye level. It is best to measure an actual figure to head height (just figure where the top of the head is if he's wearing a hat). All manufacturers will send you a sample if you haven't bought anything yet.

5'10" is 1776. 1776 mm is the conversion figure. If you feel your figures are taller than 5'10" you should use a bigger number such as 6' or 1828 mm. (The figure is arrived at by multiplying the height in inches by 25.4)

If you consider that 5'10" is an average and accept a variance of 2" either side then the results can also be in this range (+ or - 3%). As far as buildings and vehicles are concerned I personally feel that + or - 10% does not look bad on the table.

What you do to get a fractional scale is divide your conversion figure by the figure height. So, looking at one of my Britannia 20 mm GI's he is 23 mm tall, allowing for the fact he is crouching a little. So 1776 /23 is 77 and a little bit. So that means his fractional scale is 1/77. That is why he looks proportional to all those 1/76 th scale tanks I have for him.

Now this works both ways. I found a 1/60 th scale model of a Rolls Royce car and was wondering if it would look out of place outside my British Embassy in Morocco for the Red Shadow's Desert Fantasy World.

So 1776 / 60 is 29 . That means a 5'10" dude would be 29 mm at 1/60 th scale. My French Foreign Legion are 28 mm tall, so that's within may acceptable range.

All you've got to do is remember 1776

1776 divided by figure height gives you a fractional scale

1776 divided by the fractional scale gives you a figure height.

Doing some conversions from figures from my collection we end up with

6 mm 1/296 th
9 mm 1/197 th
10 mm 1/178 th
15 mm 1/118 th
18 mm 1/99 th
20 mm 1/89 th
23 mm 1/77 th
25 mm 1/71 th
28 mm 1/63 rd
54 mm 1/33 rd

As you can see, most of these figures fall within a few percent of commonly available models. Most 15 mm W.W.II figure are actually nearer 18 mm in figure height so are also referred to as 1/100 th These do not look out of place with HO scale buildings (1/87th scale). 20 mm W.W.II figures are usually around 23 mm (1/77 th) and don't look out of place with British Rail Road scale OO scale buildings (1/76). My Skytrex action 200 tanks (1/200 th) look fine with Z Scale buildings (1/220) The smaller the scale greater the tolerance that looks OK)
 
check out these:

http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?MacroType=MilVeh&Maker1=ARI&Scale=48&Dis=-2&GenreCode=Mil
http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?MacroType=MilGun&Maker1=ARI&Scale=48&Dis=-2&GenreCode=Mil
 
I think the Zhengdfu kits are scaled to fit the motors and other components so all their AFVs are about the same size be it a Marder or an M1, one lower hull fits all. Their BTR and LAV kits are the same, four models on one lower hull.

They are really quite good kits for the price, I think they have better detail than their motorised 1/48th scale Academy equivalents whose detail seems quite soft though I have only seen their Challenger and M60 kits.

I am now permanently suspicious of the scale of any diecast vehicle. The only sensible thing to do seems to be to take a miniature with you when shopping and check it against each vehicle before buying.

The first post was written for a webpage a few years ago and only lightly altered since. Things have changed a little bit, there is a lovely new range from Schuco (?) that ranges from interwar vehicles to the modern day. Some are very big (1/43rd scale or so) particularly the WW II American halftrack SPG or ATG variant (M?, I was never that interested in these) while the LAV seemed quite small – probably because I was used to the Zhengdfu kit. They do a lovely looking model of the Italian Centauro 8-wheeled armoured car and a slightly odd looking mine resistant Landrover – though of course all mine resistant vehicles are a little odd looking.

There seems to be a split between 25-28mm wargamers, some want vehicles around 1/60th in scale which is more accurate in theory while others are happy enough with 1/48th and 1/50th scale vehicles which are too big. 1/43rd is too big and does look too big which is very obvious with softskins and civilian cars, which is a pity as there are a lot of cheap diecast cars in this scale as well as some insanely expensive collectors ones.
 
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