I wish GW did 'smelly primer' still, it was slightly thicker than a standard skull white, of course, meant for priming. I would suggest black with the amount of T-bolts you're gonna have to paint, then drybrush them bolt-gun metal (I'm guessing they look like this?). If they are white, undercoat them white with a very watered down (6:1 water/black ink) black ink. If you dont want them to chip, buy some gloss varnish, then follow that with a matt varnish to stop them being uber shiny. This isn't like, *I am the Invincible un-chippable T-Bolt* keep in mind, you will still need proper transport.
I will be enlightened to see the results next time I am so unfortunate as to meet you .
I like using Armory Grey Spray Primer for my figs. The problem I have had with white primer in the past is if I miss a spot in a deep recess in a given fig, it shows up a little too well. The grey primer still allows for "brightness" in the figure.
Also, I have been using the Vallejo paints recently. I find they cover better than the GW paints, and they are a little bit cheaper. Also, the Vallejo Game Colour paints are colour matched to the GW paints.
I'm not worried about smell, I have almost no sense of smell, it's the fumes, I only have small window openings so if fumes start to build up I wouldn't notice till I was floating round the room on chemicals :lol:
Well, I know you already said no to an airbrush, but i think you should reconsider. I used mine to paint my last chas, and it was way faster than doing it by hand. I do my airbrushing into a box, and I havn't noticed any mess yet.
I used to hand prime all my stuff, but I found that doing it by hand could be moe uneven than by can. Plus, it takes a long time to prime a figure fully, by the time I was done I used to feel a bit burned out and not have the will to finish the job
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