Ink/Wash Tips

[127th Angry Angels]

Hey guys,

Ok so i finally finish painting my newest MI additions and decided that a new project was needed. I headed down to my LGS and picked up some Cougars While i was restocking on paints i noticed inks on the shelf. Having just been paid i figured what the hell and picked up some black ink and dark green ink(my MI are mostly dark angels green). I sat down last night and realised i really don't know the most effective way to use inks!

Have you guys got any tips on inks/washes? any advice would be great and pics of models you've employed them on would be awesome. I've used flesh wash before but thats it.

Cheers

 

[mthomason]

Pretty much depends on the amount of detail on the model and the number of different colours you're dealing with.

For models that are mostly a single colour without any flat areas you can get a really good effect for little effort by doing a watered-down ink wash over the entire model. For a Cougar painted Dark Angels Green I'd probably use a black wash about 1 part ink to 3 parts water. Keep the dark green ink for something painted a brighter shade of green.

For larger models you'll want to paint the ink in a more controlled manner, flowing it into detailed parts of the model with the tip of the brush rather than washing large areas. Having said that you can always wash the entire model, then repaint the flat areas to get rid of the ink stains.

Typically I'll use a black wash on pretty much everything I do, just to give a "black lining" effect on all the detail.

I also use non-diluted inks to add stronger colours to models - reds and browns seem to work especially well with this. I'll use a brown ink over brown paint for leather armour, pouches, etc.

 

[Verm1s]

Adding a little spot of detergent - or, if you're pretentious (like me), tension breaker/flow enhancer from an art supply shop - creates a more even wash and can help to reduce tide marks and stains on flat areas.

Also, tide marks can depend on the amount of wash you apply. Take it from me - don't drown the mini! Even detergent won't help even drying if you have 'puddles' all over it.
But at the same time, apply enough so that it makes a difference. If you have the time, applying two or more thinner washes can reduce the chance of messy mistakes, especially if you're experimenting.

 

[Scotty59]

I agree with the responses above. The only thing I'll add is that when I want to apply a wash to an enamel-painted surface (such as enamel spray yellow as a base coat for my Tiger Warriors), I get better results applying an enamel thinner-based wash instead of a water-based acrylic wash.

I just mix a few drops of whatever color I'm using into some thinner and apply as normal. It flows better and adheres better when dry.

 

[hamlrt]

Hello there ,
Heres a top tip as given to me by a great figure painter .
Place some of your ink into a small bowl palette , then add a few small drops of pva glue and mix in , then dilute the ink/pva to the same consistency that it was before you added the p.v.a glue (use clean water).
The resulting mix will flow into all the detail and virtually set (because of the glue) , use the ink/glue wash exactly like you would a 'neat' ink .
put all the residue in a spare clean pot , eventually when you add other colour residues you will get a 'dirty' wash/ink , perfect for weathering and looks really cool on light leathers and canvas type surfaces .
It will take a little practise to get it just right , but looks ace when you do.
john