Flight stands, which do you prefer?

[Taran]

I keep having the stems break off inside the ships, forcing me to redrill.

I don't glue my ships to their stands at all (learned that with WHF models). But I am looking into those Ninja Magic adapters. They look good.

 

[Banzai]

I keep having the stems break off inside the ships, forcing me to redrill.

But I am looking into those Ninja Magic adapters. They look good.

I have been using GW stems, which seem to work out perfectly with a 5/32 hole in the model. I trim the stem top until the model sits flush with the larger portion of the stem. I get very few breakages this way.

I have a bunch of the Ninja Magic adapters on order, too. That is to say, backorder.

While the MGP bases are 1 and 2 inches, the GW bases are 1 1/4 and 2 3/8, in case anyone was wondering.

And I, too, would love to see some pictures of everyone's home made or modified stands!

Tom

 

[lastbesthope]

Mongoose Metal, but the stems need to be metal as well as the base.

LBH
(Needs to get some of those Ninja Magic adaptors)

 

[David Anla Shok']

Thought that was a strictly Mongoose problem... Yeah, why can't they make holes just bigger?

Blue tac? Could you explain Boss?

It is a putty that is composed so as not to dry out. Blu Tac is a retail name for it. Also known as Poster Putty, Fun Tac, etc. It is designed to hold posters on the wall without putting holes in the wall. It works well for holding things within limits of course. I use it for some GW models, holding riders into saddles and for my FOW stuff, keeping turrets onto tank hulls.

 

[Taran]

The white poster putties cost less and you get bigger blocks of it for the same price...

How many of Mongoose's metal stands in each package?

 

[David Anla Shok']

The white poster putties cost less and you get bigger blocks of it for the same price...

How many of Mongoose's metal stands in each package?

Never researched that. I just buy it when I need it. Remember though, its not glue. It provides friction hold only.

 

[Banichi]

I couldn't vote because I use a combination of gw and mongoose plastic stands for all my capital ships. I like having four different sized bases to choose from. I don't use the black hexes for fighters, I make my own. Banzai's tip about trimming the tip off plastic stands is worth its wieght in gold. I've done this on all my big ships, and never had a breakage. It does mean you have to drill the hole bigger, but thats not much hassle.

 

[David Anla Shok']

I couldn't vote because I use a combination of gw and mongoose plastic stands for all my capital ships. I like having four different sized bases to choose from. I don't use the black hexes for fighters, I make my own. Banzai's tip about trimming the tip off plastic stands is worth its wieght in gold. I've done this on all my big ships, and never had a breakage. It does mean you have to drill the hole bigger, but thats not much hassle.

Yeah. It is a good tip. For the really big models I just use brass rod and a heavily reenforced base.

 

[Chilledenuff]

Blue tac? Could you explain Boss?

Blu tac is a soft non-setting putty, normally used to stick posters to walls, hope that helps

 

[Iain McGhee]

Most of mine have the larger 2" or so bases with a nail replacing the pole, leaving about an inch ground clearance. Small ships like the Tethys use the smaller 1" base. All the larger ships I've bought since the metal bases became available use these. Heavy fighters are mounted on nails rather than directly on their base and other fighters use SST type round bases.

 

[Darken]

Im slowly shifting to the metal bases and stems all my plastice stems broke off in the models