CAP Trooper Construction Tutorial

Aniyn

Mongoose
Well, there seems to be a lot of desire for this, and as someone who enjoys building caps, I figure I can help out some.



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I always start by removing all the mold lines from all parts. Then, I glue the legs to the base, and the torso to it - You'll want the back to be flush; don't worry to much about the front.

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Then the butt plate. Put the slot on the plate over the tab on the bottom of the torso.

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Next the pack. I put a drop of glue on the top of the butt plate, and one on the tab on the top of the pack. That tab should rest right above the detail panel as shown here (sorry it's so dark)
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Next, glue the morita to the right arm. I put a drop in the palm and one on the flat part of the inside of the arm.

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Now comes the hard part (Don't worry, once you put together 1 or 2 caps this gets to be fun). You need to hold both arms up to the torso, and see where the shoulders need to get filed down so everything fits decently. In this case, no alteration was needed, so I just glued the arm to the torso.
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Please note that where your trooper is aiming (ie up or down) will affect how things fit.

The left arm on the other hand needed to be pointing more to the troopers right so it would touch the gun. Just shave some of the arm's connection point off like so:
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Once you've dry fit the arm to your tastes, glue it on. I glue the palm of the hand and the torso's connection area out of personal preference.

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Now it you look at where the left arm connects to the torso you will see a small gap. This is from shaving the front of the arm connection point off. A drop of super glue will work wonders to fill and strengthen the joint
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Now I've added the codpiece and leg packs. I probably should have done this before I did the arms, but i forgot. No biggie, just a little harder to reach now.

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Now the helmet and shoulder pads. Do the head first - I like to have them looking to their left (ie where they would be shooting), but forward can work too. The shoulder pads aren't too bad, I put a drop of glue on the shoulder of the arm and another where the bottom edge of the pad goes.

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And we're done! Now that wasn't so bad, was it? Next thing you know your squad will be up and squashing bugs like pro's!
squad.JPG


Other notes:
-I use superglue - "Instant Krazy glue" to be exact
-It takes me about twice as long to remove the mold lines as it does to build the model
-For help with the special arms check this out
-Tweezers and nail clippers are excellent, easy to find tools
-It took me almost 2 hours to do my first trooper. Took 15-20 minutes to do this one
 
Thanks very much for this. I'm getting ready to assemble my first MI this weekend and I guarantee I'll be following your helpful guide! :D
 
Excellent idea, wish someone thought about such a thing when plastic cadians were released :)
Am sure it'll help with CAPs from the box ^^
 
I like the painted face plates...did you use gold? What side did you paint, the back or front.

Nice tutorial too... :D
 
Buttplates? Damn, I've always wondered what they were for...

Oh well, I still got a box of troopers to assemble - this time I'll do them complete ;)

Thanks for the guide!
 
Thanks for posting this again Aniyn.

Perhaps it should be posted as a Sticky up top on the SST Forum Homepage?
It would certainly help a lot of people. I know it helped me with my first box of MI.

Thanks again!! :!: :!: :!: :D :D :D :D
 
Cool painted caps, almost like Spartans :) , alas this is of no help to me, I have made my cap platoon perfectly already :lol: , Caps and warriors are my favorites to stick togther so far :)
 
I posted this in another topic but feel it may help here also...

I use "Tenax 7R" exclusively for any styrene assembly. A friend of mine used to work in assembly line construction of plastic components here locally. The company uses it for all plastic part assemblies. This stuff Rules! It literally "Welds" the polystyrene together. I build plastic models as part of my hobby also, & I love this stuff. Great capillary action to flow into tough joins & joints, pre-wetting & quick adheasion of joins yet flexible enough for position adjustment. I even use it to fill gaps in miss-matched joints, I take spare styrene(sprues come in handy for this) & cut or scrape plastic shavings to fill the gap, then apply the liquid cement then you can actually shape it to an extent. But the cement will "melt" the plastic enough to fill out the gap. I do a great amount of "kit bashing" & Scratch building & without " Tenax 7R" I could not get away with half of some of the great builds I've created in the past.

By the way Thanks Big 'A' good work! Great Idea!
 
Mad Scot said:
I posted this in another topic but feel it may help here also...

I use "Tenax 7R" exclusively for any styrene assembly. A friend of mine used to work in assembly line construction of plastic components here locally. The company uses it for all plastic part assemblies. This stuff Rules! It literally "Welds" the polystyrene together. I build plastic models as part of my hobby also, & I love this stuff. Great capillary action to flow into tough joins & joints, pre-wetting & quick adheasion of joins yet flexible enough for position adjustment. I even use it to fill gaps in miss-matched joints, I take spare styrene(sprues come in handy for this) & cut or scrape plastic shavings to fill the gap, then apply the liquid cement then you can actually shape it to an extent. But the cement will "melt" the plastic enough to fill out the gap. I do a great amount of "kit bashing" & Scratch building & without " Tenax 7R" I could not get away with half of some of the great builds I've created in the past.

By the way Thanks Big 'A' good work! Great Idea!

Here's some further info, sound like good stuff:

http://www.nscalesupply.com/TEN/TEN.html
 
Nice thing though I don't know what to do wrong assembling a CAP.
Would be nice to do such a guide to all modells of every faction (with the Users help).
 
I just finished assembling my first CAP trooper last night and wanted to thank you for posting this. It was very helpful for know the placemnet of all the tiny bits.

I agree that it would be nice to have tutorials for all the models and types, I will take pics of mine as I go and if they are good enough, I'll post them.
 
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