Red-24's Painted Star Fleet
- Thread starter Red-24
- Start date
Captain Jonah
Mongoose
Received, many thanks
nekomata fuyu
Mongoose
There's more structure added to the top/rear section of the command saucer.JohnDW said:
Here are some shots. CA on the left, CC on the right.
Also, I would say the other difference is that the CC was much more difficult to assemble. The strut holes were too small and were hard to get enlarged. Then I over enlarged them. This was the first mini that I had to resort to 5 minute epoxy instead of superglue. Hopefully won't be noticeable after painting.
Also, I would say the other difference is that the CC was much more difficult to assemble. The strut holes were too small and were hard to get enlarged. Then I over enlarged them. This was the first mini that I had to resort to 5 minute epoxy instead of superglue. Hopefully won't be noticeable after painting.
Well despite the models being made pretty much in my backyard(not really, but might as well be compared to where england is) here in Ohio, no tournaments here yet, hah. But that's ok I suppose, I think I'm mainly interested in Gorn and Romulans for 'full' fleets, I'll be happy with my Fed and Kling squadron box sets to provide a little variety.
Dogbertious
Mongoose
Dear lord, your Klingon ships are beautiful.
Might I ask, how did you get them looking so damn pretty! What are your secrets! I MUST HAVE THEM!
*cough* Sorry, got carried away.
Might I ask, how did you get them looking so damn pretty! What are your secrets! I MUST HAVE THEM!
*cough* Sorry, got carried away.
Thanks. I put a ton of time into trying out different colors of grey/green. And also decided from the start that I wasn't going to drybrush them. I figured there were enough raised details, that picking them out with lighter or other colours would be more effective.Dogbertious said:
I use Vallejo paints and kept track of what colours I mixed in what quantities. I can share the colour scheme if you want.
Even after all of that, I still feel I painted them a bit too dark, but the colours do look good up against my Romulan colours.
Dogbertious
Mongoose
If you could share the colour scheme, I would be very greatful. I've recently decided to go grey with my Klingons, but my early attempts have not yielded a result I have liked.
Here is what I documented. All of these are Vallejo Game Color paints (including the extra opaque set) http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/game-color-gb.html
Klingons
Hull Colour: 5 drops wolf grey, 3 drops heavy grey (green), 2 drops black.
Lowlights: 5 drops wolf grey, 3 drops heavy grey (green), 4 drops black.
upper housing, two raised areas front of hull, bottom of forward deck, front and sides of forward deck, bottom of oval bridge, , recesses in nacells, back area of nacelles, back of hull grill area, recessed back of wings, trench at front of bridge, fatter base of the neck.
Highlights: 7 drops wolf grey, 2 drops heavy grey (green), 1 drop black.
wing patterns, vertical lines on front of hull, patterns at top back of bridge, front of nacelles, main part of impulse coolers, top of upper housing lines, highlights on base of neck, two knobs under bridge deck, raised sides on nacelles, two bits below front bridge deck.
More highlights: Rainy day grey
detail on bottom of nacelles, back of nacelles, back grill lines, details on back of upper housing, raised upper base of neck.
Gory Red/Black wash: deep into upper housing grill and impulse cooler grills.
Gory Red/Tinny tin (1:1): upper housing grills and impulse cooler grills.
Night blue/Magic blue/Electric blue (white): Blue details on wings. Start with night blue, then drybrush: Magic blue, then electric blue, then electric blue/white.
Scorpy Green: Green dots and side of bridge
Silver: Lines on wings, dots on wing blue areas, front sensor, phaser dots on upper wings..
White with a touch of Bald Moon Yellow: windows.
Bald moon Yellow: Engine patterns at back of hull (put white and let dry first).
Orange Fire: “glow” at back part of nacelles.
Klingons
Hull Colour: 5 drops wolf grey, 3 drops heavy grey (green), 2 drops black.
Lowlights: 5 drops wolf grey, 3 drops heavy grey (green), 4 drops black.
upper housing, two raised areas front of hull, bottom of forward deck, front and sides of forward deck, bottom of oval bridge, , recesses in nacells, back area of nacelles, back of hull grill area, recessed back of wings, trench at front of bridge, fatter base of the neck.
Highlights: 7 drops wolf grey, 2 drops heavy grey (green), 1 drop black.
wing patterns, vertical lines on front of hull, patterns at top back of bridge, front of nacelles, main part of impulse coolers, top of upper housing lines, highlights on base of neck, two knobs under bridge deck, raised sides on nacelles, two bits below front bridge deck.
More highlights: Rainy day grey
detail on bottom of nacelles, back of nacelles, back grill lines, details on back of upper housing, raised upper base of neck.
Gory Red/Black wash: deep into upper housing grill and impulse cooler grills.
Gory Red/Tinny tin (1:1): upper housing grills and impulse cooler grills.
Night blue/Magic blue/Electric blue (white): Blue details on wings. Start with night blue, then drybrush: Magic blue, then electric blue, then electric blue/white.
Scorpy Green: Green dots and side of bridge
Silver: Lines on wings, dots on wing blue areas, front sensor, phaser dots on upper wings..
White with a touch of Bald Moon Yellow: windows.
Bald moon Yellow: Engine patterns at back of hull (put white and let dry first).
Orange Fire: “glow” at back part of nacelles.
Dogbertious
Mongoose
You, good sir, are a scholar and a gentleman. My LGS stocks the Game Color range, so I should be able to acquire the colours you used with little trouble.
Once again, my thanks.
Once again, my thanks.
There's a conversion chart here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
