Priming Centauri

white is better most of the time, black will give you easyer shadows,
where white will help with washes for highlights etc
 
White if you intend using standard centauri colours, if you intend using grey, i would use a black undercoat
 
Unless the miniature that I am working on is going to be totally dark I always use white primer. If you want the shading help that black primer gives you on parts of a miniature then I suggest using white primer and inking the "dark" parts with black ink. That way if you want bright colors anywhere on the mini you won't have to fight with your black primer. Also, I tend to get more control with inks and I am a control freak. :oops: So far I haven't used black on any of my ACTA miniatures except for my son's Vree. They're Reaper shadowed steel drybrushed over black, highlighted with polished silver and then the colorful bits are painted over the polished silver. This brought the base up to a level of brightness that doesn't eat my light colors. Just my $.02.

Steve at Rules of Engagement Games
Home of the Earth-Centauri War on this side of the pond.
 
roegames said:
Unless the miniature that I am working on is going to be totally dark I always use white primer. If you want the shading help that black primer gives you on parts of a miniature then I suggest using white primer and inking the "dark" parts with black ink. That way if you want bright colors anywhere on the mini you won't have to fight with your black primer. Also, I tend to get more control with inks and I am a control freak. :oops: So far I haven't used black on any of my ACTA miniatures except for my son's Vree. They're Reaper shadowed steel drybrushed over black, highlighted with polished silver and then the colorful bits are painted over the polished silver. This brought the base up to a level of brightness that doesn't eat my light colors. Just my $.02.

Steve at Rules of Engagement Games
Home of the Earth-Centauri War on this side of the pond.

love to see the Vree,

thanks for the advice guys xx
 
They're a Christmas present for my son. As soon as they're done I'll post pics of his Vree fleet, my wife's Minbari and my Narn and ISA fleets. We just got into the game when 2e became available so we've been painting like mad and I have been demo'ing at my store as well. I also have a small selection of Centauri (the old reinforcement box) that I use for demo's.
 
I undercoat my Centauri black. I like the darker purple it produces, and the grey will look more uniform over a darker undercoat than a lighter one.
 
here are my grey white stars:

ISAGreyStars.jpg
 
I almost always use a black primer.
But as Da Boss noticed when I posted pics of my Victories, I like dark paintschemes...
 
I tend to prefer Grey Primer. It gives you the flexability to go with lighter and darker colours. My current favorite is Floquil Grey Primer as it tends to give a very even coat.


Dave
 
The problem with grey, as I learned in a hurry with my WHF minis, is that it doesn't shade And it doesn't highlight. It does nothing for you. I would really only use it on very large models.
 
Ask and thou shalt receive :)

Vorchan1.jpg


Vorchan2.jpg


Vorchan3.jpg


Vorchan4.jpg


@M1ndr1d3rs: I use Citadel paints. Chaos Black undercoat, Midnight Blue for the purple (weird huh), Dwarf Bronze for the gold, Codex Grey and Mithril Silver for trim, Ice Blue for engine glow. Oh and then a fineliner pen for the panel lines, and Bleached Bone for the "name tag" on the base.
 
The blitz threw off the lighting of the 1st pic didn't it?

I actually came up with a mixture of Tamiya acrylic paints to achieve very similar purple. I'm running out of the mixture and worried I may not be able to find the right composition again. And your gold matched the purple better. That's why I'm so interested.

Citadel... Haven't seen them around here. :(

Nice stand, how did you do it? I never liked Vorchans mounted tall. The high center of gravity results in bad balance.
 
I used the flash on the first one, it's overexposed but you can see the blacklining quite well. The stand is just the base part of the usual plastic flying stand, and a pair of 5mm-diameter disc magnets - the uber-strong rare earth ones, they're cheap from eBay. One magnet goes on the base, one goes on the model, making sure that the polarities are the right way around! They're just superglued on, there's no fancy drilling or anything.

The Citadel paints are the ones that Games Workshop sell - if there are no GWs near you and you really really want them, you can find them quite easily on t'interwebs.
 
Back
Top