Hyperion construction

[nekomata fuyu]

I received my first ACTA models this morning, and have noticed that there's thick chunks of metal between the domes and structure on the engine block of the hyperion (too thick to slice off with a craft knife like normal flash).
How common is this, and does anyone have any tips on cleaning off such chunks? I'm fairly confident that the detail is recoverable with some work (and the other miniatures I've worked with so far have probably spoiled me to be honest ), but I thought it best to see if anyone else had hints on the best methods to do so before I start hacking away at it.

 

[EDFDarkAngel1]

I know of the flash you are speaking off. I use wire clippers and a diamond file for both my Hyperions. I was able to salvage a significant bit of it, but the flash inbetween the railings connecting the body to the engine was fruitless considering that my files didn't reach in there.

Dark Angel

 

[Hans Olo]

Sadly that bad quality is absolutely normal for MGP.

For the main hull engine connection i suggest you should get some small files.
Don't know how its called in English but in Germany they are called Key Files.
There should be some triangular shaped files that can reach the problematic spots.

 

[Banichi]

Sadly that bad quality is absolutely normal for MGP.

That's a bit harsh. True, the hyperion is one of the flashiest models I've ever seen due to being an old mold, but most of the other mongoose publishing minies I've put together have been ok. So don't dispair yet. :lol:

 

[eek]

Yeah, the older stuff can be a bit bad (I don't think I have a single Starfury (out of well over 100) with all 4 engines fully formed) but the new ships are great. The Jumpgate had hardly any flash at all... just those little vent thingies.

 

[MongooseMatt]

True, the hyperion is one of the flashiest models I've ever seen due to being an old mold,

Funny you should say that - we are making a little announcement about the Hyperion later today. . .

 

[Hans Olo]

Sadly that bad quality is absolutely normal for MGP.

That's a bit harsh. True, the hyperion is one of the flashiest models I've ever seen due to being an old mold, but most of the other mongoose publishing minies I've put together have been ok. So don't dispair yet. :lol:

Ok to be fair the new Models are quit alright (like the Marathon)
But the older stuff, Omega Hyperion even the Chronos and Warlock always need a lot of work, also the Vree, Tinashi etc.
But the Hyperion is among the worst.
There's definitely a long list of molds that need to be redone.

 

[Burger]

The Hyperions in the EA fleet box I won at Q-Con this year were fairly good, not perfect but reasonable. That was from an old EA fleet box, before they were even split into 3 eras! The Omegas were really good. I was quite surprised at how good they were, considering the Victories in my ISA box had enough flash to build a whole new model!!!

 

[H]

Sadly that bad quality is absolutely normal for MGP.

That's a bit harsh. True, the hyperion is one of the flashiest models I've ever seen due to being an old mold, but most of the other mongoose publishing minies I've put together have been ok. So don't dispair yet. :lol:

Ok to be fair the new Models are quit alright (like the Marathon)
But the older stuff, Omega Hyperion even the Chronos and Warlock always need a lot of work, also the Vree, Tinashi etc.
But the Hyperion is among the worst.
There's definitely a long list of molds that need to be redone.

I had one great hyperion, all shiny with minimal flash, and one utter dog of a hyperion. the new Brakiri stuff is great, almost flash free, the marathons were flash free, the delphi and Chronos were flash free. lets mention the good as well as picking on the bad?

 

[Lord David the Denied]

I received my first ACTA models this morning, and have noticed that there's thick chunks of metal between the domes and structure on the engine block of the hyperion (too thick to slice off with a craft knife like normal flash).
How common is this, and does anyone have any tips on cleaning off such chunks? I'm fairly confident that the detail is recoverable with some work (and the other miniatures I've worked with so far have probably spoiled me to be honest ), but I thought it best to see if anyone else had hints on the best methods to do so before I start hacking away at it.

That sounds pretty bad. I'd be inclined to send them back for replacements. As I mentioned elsewhere, I have a pair of Vorchans going back that are too miscast to recover.

 

[nekomata fuyu]

I'd feel bad about getting it replaced unless it's badly unrecoverable - considering that I'm on my 3rd rule book from MGP, they're probably getting sick of me already Besides, I think I should me able to get a fair level of detail back by drilling holes in the right places to weaken the chunks before cutting them off (my clippers can't get in at the right angle to cut it as is). I guess I should also look at getting a small dremel.

Now, this announcement on the Hyperion has me curious. It has me all impatient now

 

[David Anla Shok']

For hard to reach places, sometimes you just can't substitute anything for a sharp, new blade and patience. Also, for some bits, a Dremel tool with a carborundum wheel works wonders. I've used mine for lead, pewter, clay, and resin models. Best of luck!
Regards,

 

[Taran]

Sadly that bad quality is absolutely normal for MGP.

That's a bit harsh. True, the hyperion is one of the flashiest models I've ever seen due to being an old mold, but most of the other mongoose publishing minies I've put together have been ok. So don't dispair yet. :lol:

I don't know about that. 3 hours Per Model to clean the flash off something as small as the Victory Class Destroyer (and 20 minutes PER StarFury or Nial) is WAY too much.
I can clean and assemble and prime a Warhammer Slann or Carnosaur or Stegadon in under an hour. Or a Reaper Dragon or similarly-sized/intricate/detailed model in under 2.

Models as relatively simple and small as Victory Destroyers have no excuse for 3 hour of work Before assembly is even possible.


Disclaimer: Once I spent the 20 minutes per to cut off all the flash, the WhiteStars slap together in about 20 more minutes, so I know these issues are not universal...