Painting Star trek Miniatures

[Renny]

Thanks for the kind words, everyone The clean up of flash was a minor chore. There wasn't a great deal. There was a couple of small "holes" for want in a better word in the command pod on the D6 and C7(not pictured yet) which I could have filled but haven't bothered in this case as the flaw is pretty small. To be honest, the Federation ships were more of a problem. The domes on the front and rear of the engine pods had a fair bit of flash which has proved tricky to get smooth. By their nature, the Federation ships are smoother and so such flaws will stand out more. A minor niggle, though, as the models are really good. Remember to wear some kind of face mask if sanding these as the resin can put out a bit of dust if you're not careful.

 

[Finlos]

Remember to wear some kind of face mask if sanding these as the resin can put out a bit of dust if you're not careful.

Seconding the safety tip. Work in a well ventilated room as well, you want to breathe in as little of that dust as possible.

 

[Totenkopf]

Klingon Empire emblem, is that mutli-colored emblem the official emblem of the Klingon Empire in SFU?

 

[Nerroth]

You can see a few dolled-up versions of the Alpha Octant faction logos on Xander Fulton's gallery page over on the ADB website.

 

[Rick]

Klingon Empire emblem, is that mutli-colored emblem the official emblem of the Klingon Empire in SFU?

I am certain that is the emblem of Klingon navy ships and was used on the original series ships. Paramount changed it to an all-red one for TNG and after. However, I believe the SFU may use slightly different colours on the trefoil to denote ships from other fleets within the Klingon Empire.

 

[Iron Domokun]

In the SFU, the three-coloured trefoil is the symbol of the Klingon Empire as a whole, each colour representing something or other. An all-red trefoil is used by the Klingon Empire Security Service, the much-feared secret police. Other services have different coloured trefoils on their uniforms. It's all in the Prime Directive: Klingons books for the rpg.

 

[Rambler]

Some how the post I typed up got eaten by the great mysterios web thingy but i pretty much siad what Iron Domokun did.

This PDF migh help some to see what we are saying.

http://www.starfleetgames.com/minis/race.pdf

Edit: Don't be suprised if ean makes some one change the title to Empire Symbol File :lol: =p

 

[Totenkopf]

Thanks for the help/answers

 

[Jean]

Unless I am mistaken, the trefoil for the ships in the SFU is always multi-colored. The bars and triangles indicating rank change color depending on the branch the officer is in: http://www.starfleetgames.com/sfb/sfin/KlingonInsignia.pdf

Jean

 

[billclo]

I haven't gotten any minis yet, but I thought I'd ask this: assuming I use acrylic paints, what is the preferred method of removing said paint if I decide a paintjob isn't working to my satisfaction?

I was going to try a ship or two in my old paint scheme for the FASA Klingon ships: gun-metal, with silver and gold deflector plating highlights (probably something else as well but it's been a long time since I last had those minis). If it doesn't look good, I will want to strip it and start over...but I do think it'll look good.

 

[GalagaGalaxian]

A day or so in simple green followed by a toothbrush scrubbing is the preferred method in my area.

However this is for white metal and plastic minis, I'm unsure about resin.

 

[billclo]

I've had good results with a soak in acetone followed with a stiff brushing out, but it doesn't 100% remove all paint so I'm open to other ideas. This is with metal minis of course.

I also have no experience at all with resin minis.

 

[tneva82]

Well with metals stuff called(atleast here) nitromors is one bloody effective way to strip the paint. Just be careful with the toxic fumes and do not even think of using it to plastic...Melts straightaway! Don't know about how it affects resin miniatures though.

 

[Ben2]

I would really recommend against using nitromors on anything except metal as it will melt them like a wet witch.

For stripping resin you soak the model in simple green for 36-48 hours, scrub it with a toothbrush to remove most of the paint, then repeat to clean the rest off.

 

[billclo]

Thank you, Ben2.

 

[djdood]

For stripping paint (enamel and acrylics), I usually try undiluted Simple Green first. It's cheap and just safer and often does the job. If it can't do it (or can't do all of it), I move up to Easy Off oven cleaner. Anything stronger has always caused carnage with plastic/resin models.

In regards to painting, for Fed ships, I use Newitt's "concrete" Testors enamel color-mix, slightly tweaked, and have always been happy with the results.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r128/djdood/SFU_Blog_BBS_Stuff/SFU%20Minis%20BBS%20Stuff/FederationPaint-Mix10-24-09.jpg

 

[billclo]

I'm having some issues with my paint, and am looking for advice.

I'm using Army Painter black primer for my primer, and it seems to be sticking to the resin well. The problem is that when I put a tiny bit of water into my acrylic paints to thin them a bit, the paint won't stay where I want it to; it isn't adhering well.

If I let it dry and put on another coat, it adheres a little better, but it can take 3-4 coats before it's giving good coverage.

I've never seen this with painting metal miniatures, and this is my first foray into resin minis. I'm used to only doing 2, maybe 3 coats and that's it, but having to do 4+ is taking a long time.

I'm using Reaper paints, if that makes any difference.

I think I'm going to have to get some filler paste/putty, whatever for some of these minis; there are just enough mold marks/flaws that when I paint them they show like crazy. It's going to take more filing/filling in to get the minis where I want them.

Ack, doing a fleet pack is going to take a loooong time.

I've also noticed that it's REALLY easy to have paint wear off any part that touches something harder than the plastic. A couple coats of matte varnish are going to be a must.

 

[Iron Domokun]

Bill, it is my understanding that gloss varnish gives a harder/less porous coat than matte. What you can do is a coat of gloss then a coat of matte, and the matte will kill the shine of the gloss varnish.

 

[Iain McGhee]

Yes, better to gloss coat for protection and then dull coat. Also, if you're using decals they work better on a gloss finish (far less chance of silvering, better adherance), then give them a coat of gloss in case the matt spray damages them.

Haven't had any problems with paint adherence on resin (of various types) myself, or any more chipping issues than with metal miniatures. Never used Reaper paints, but I've used the same make of primer you are on resin models without any issues. In fact, I've found resin to take paint better than metal.

In case it is something to do with your paint (from their website sounds like it might be one of those makes that are more for airbrush use and quite thinned out to start with, although if you've used them before that obviously can't be the problem), I've successfully used a mixture of Vallejo, Revell and GW acrylics on resin if you're looking for possible alternatives.

 

[billclo]

Guys,

Thanks for the comments about matte/gloss varnish, especially concerning decals. I was not aware of those details... :? I think I'll put a gloss coat on and hold off with the matte for now, because I am waiting to see what decals Mongoose puts out. If they do Klingon trefoils, it'll probably look better than what my old shaky hand can do.

I let my subconscious work on the problem overnight and I think I have an idea why my paints aren't working right...I have to confirm it today and I'll report back.