Mapping custom ships

Rabek

Mongoose
After designing a custom ship mechanically, how does one generally go about mapping out floorplans? I intend to run a lot of the campaign on the custom ship the players designed, so I'd like to have maps.

I've seen a consensus that 2 squares = 1 dTon. How to you account for hallways? Do most people just have them not take dTons?

What about converting to hexes, or the GURPS system which has units for features rather than dTons? Or converting back from a GURPS floorplan to a Mongoose floorplan?

Any help at all would be most welcome, thank you.
 
+1.

?2 squares = 1 DTon? So 1 square = 4 m^2, 2 meters on a side?

Also what is the volume of a DTon
At the risk of usurping the OP. Is a DTon 14 or 27 m^3? In traveller it says 14 I think, In the Vehicle handbook it says 27.
 
The standard for drawing your ship is 2 squares = 1 displacement ton. Which measures 1.5m x 1.5m x 3m tall.

The rule of thumb has always been draw the ship according to the displacement of the systems and miscellaneous (bridge, staterooms, hangars, etc). The hallways are essentially "free" as far as displacement tonnage goes.

So long as your deckplans come within 20% of the total displacement of your design you are within acceptable guidelines.
 
On a 1.5m grid, two floor squares is a dton. 3x3x1.5. The assumed spacing between decks is 3m. This gives you a little slop room on the plans if you need it.

On a 2m grid, one floor square is a dton, with an assumed deck-to-deck spacing of 3.5m.

Hallways can come out of Bridge or quarters space. You'll notice on many plans that the staterooms are not a full four tons of space each. The extra is in the common rooms and corridors. You can use a little Bridge volume for things like airlocks, but I try to keep Bridge volume on the Bridge for the most part.
 
Rabek said:
What about converting to hexes, or the GURPS system which has units for features rather than dTons? Or converting back from a GURPS floorplan to a Mongoose floorplan?

A space/unit is functionally equivalent to a displacement ton. i.e. 5 x 10 x 10 feet (Which is real close to 1.5 x 3 x 3 meters).

Also remember Gurps uses a 1 yard hex, so deckplans and such tend to be laid out in that scale. While in Traveller they generally are in 1.5 meter squares.
 
This is all super useful, guys. One question for clarification, though.

Is it the 1.5*1.5*3m first mentioned, or the 3*3*1.5m mentioned elsewhere in this thread?
 
Rabek said:
This is all super useful, guys. One question for clarification, though.

Is it the 1.5*1.5*3m first mentioned, or the 3*3*1.5m mentioned elsewhere in this thread?

1.5 by 3 by 3 meters is a displacement ton in the common layout.
 
Infojunky said:
Rabek said:
This is all super useful, guys. One question for clarification, though.

Is it the 1.5*1.5*3m first mentioned, or the 3*3*1.5m mentioned elsewhere in this thread?

1.5 by 3 by 3 meters is a displacement ton in the common layout.

Normally a pair of 1.5m squares on the plans, so 1.5m x 3m, and 3m high.
 
I usually design my deckplans so that the total of the volume roughly fits the total of squares, so a 200dton ship will roughly have 400 squares. If it has 40dtons of armor, the interior will have 320 squares.
I then try to design the deckplan in a way that engine section and cargo room are roughly as big as they should be. The rest is distributes arbitrarily. Hallways usually get squares from staterooms (those are normally 4-6 squares instead of 8) and the bridge.
 
As mention before the typical ton is 1.5m wide x 3m long x 3m tall (1 square x 2 squares x 2 squares on graph paper) That makes ship decks almost 10' clear from deck to deck, leaving about 8' of headroom in between floor structure/mechanical chases etc...
For game mechanic purposes the difference between meters and feet are basically equivalent when looking at GURPS vs. Mongoose.
1.5 meters = approximately 4' 11 1/16", less than 1" difference. I just say "about 5' x 5'".
True volume, size, and scale in a "real world" scenario would matter, but since this is a sci-fi game, don't sweat the small stuff. GURPS game mechanics is based on yards, that's all there is to it.. But as a GM fiat you can simply say "GURPS is based on meters" and be done with it. So instead of a hex equaling a yard, you could just say a hex equals a meter.
I'm an Architect so I pay very close attention to not only deck plans, but also sections, profiles, etc... In the very early days (Jr. high School) I would make deck plans on graph paper, then realize how "thin" they would be after trying to sketch elevations of them, and then completely redraw the thing.
Also I would try to break your plan into specific functions if at all possible.
Plans have improved greatly over the last 10-15 years or so (affordable over the counter 3D modelling programs is my guess) but in the early days deck plans were a mishmash of bizarre poorly thought through designs. I've seen state rooms placed in all kinds of weird places, opening directly into a jump drive, or directly into a cargo bay "cause that was the only space left where it could fit" Just imagine if a stateroom were crammed into one of the Warp Nacelles on the Star ship Enterprise from Star Trek... Thats kinda what happened in the real early days of Traveller. lol..
Look at current examples. Break your functions into cargo, engineering, command/crew, passengers, Control, etc.. Try not to place passenger state rooms where they mix with crew staterooms etc... (or enlisted men/bunk rooms VS. officers etc...)Think of a modern cruise ship, or an cruise liner from the early 20th century. You wouldn't want your paying customers to mix with the staff if you can help it. You wouldn't want to have passengers have to walk through the engine room to get to their stateroom! ;)
On very small ships, this becomes less of an issue.
Also, don't fall in love with your first layout. Make at least 3 or 4 and keep playing with the design until you find something cool and different. Start with basic sketches on blank print paper, then transfer to graph paper (or computer software) only after you get a couple of good ideas.
As mentioned in earlier posts, a 4 ton state room includes common space such as corridors and common areas like galleys and passenger lounges. The most common actual size for a stateroom is 3 tons (6 squares) but in GURPS and in T20 I think... An actual stateroom is drawn as 2 tons (4 squares) with the other 2 tons in corridors and common spaces etc... Also most rules allow a 4-5% or so "fudge factor" when drawing deck plans. As a rule, as long as your write up says you are a 200 ton ship with a M2 and J2 with 8 staterooms or what ever, nobody will care much if the actual deck plan shows 206 tons as drawn (because you might have too many "squares" in corridor space or a galley etc... ). It simply doesn't matter that much for a Science Fiction role playing game. You are not working for NASA. Only your friends so you guys can have fun on the weekends. Just make it as close as you can and have fun with your designs.
 
Rabek said:
After designing a custom ship mechanically, how does one generally go about mapping out floorplans? I intend to run a lot of the campaign on the custom ship the players designed, so I'd like to have maps.

I've seen a consensus that 2 squares = 1 dTon. How to you account for hallways? Do most people just have them not take dTons?

What about converting to hexes, or the GURPS system which has units for features rather than dTons? Or converting back from a GURPS floorplan to a Mongoose floorplan?

Any help at all would be most welcome, thank you.

Don't think of your ship's deck plan as Lego or Tetris. You can make areas of your ship smaller than one square as well as larger than one. If, on the other hand, you are focused solely on using minis on a deckplan, then your ship will be Lego-shaped. Keep in mind that players do not care about such details as much as a referee does. Players often don't move their minis, and expect the referee to do it for them. The mindset of most players is to be entertained, not concern themselves with spaceship architecture.
 
Lots of really useful stuff here, thanks guys! Just letting you know I'm still reading all the new posts. Very helpful!
 
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