D6, D5W, E4s, F5s the Start of my Klingon Fleet of Dooooom!

[scuy]

Ok got a few painted miniatures done. Rest are on my Blog. I don't take the best photos but they do look good on the table. I was not happy with the molding on the D5W's Reactor Grill (red), I tried to fix it but gave up so it made the coloring come out bad, I may go back and line the red to fake/trick the eyes into thinking they are strait.

Painting order: Primed / Base coat colors / washes / dry brushed over and over / details / repeat washes and dry brushing / mat seal.

D6

D5W and D6 viewed from a slight distance to show the paint scheme works out for gaming.

 

[billclo]

Good start. What are you going to use for the bases to delineate the firing arcs? There's free stickers you can make yourself, or I sell them as well. (shameless plug).

 

[scuy]

Good start. What are you going to use for the bases to delineate the firing arcs? There's free stickers you can make yourself, or I sell them as well. (shameless plug).

Your stickers are top notch!! but I feel the pricing is pretty high, though I would save time on the creating template part if I did buy them from you which I may do.

I been slowing creating a Arc template in Gimp, but may do it in illustrator or photoshop, because it's easier to use. I am more incline to use Illustrator due to making it a eps file, which would lead it self to be re-sized with no reduction in quality of print. Also editing the arc lines per fleet appeals to me.

I found a local place that will charge me $15 a square foot at a max 12'x12' for color decals, so my cost per template comes out to $0.42 for a 1.9" circle. Figure 36 per sq/ft. I know I can get this price reduced because I got a pretty good idea what local large print company this smaller company uses to outsource to.

Your "shameless plug" has been noted and has inspired me even before you said it, don't worry I don't plan on selling them to this group anytime soon or even at all, but maybe to my friends locally. Of course I would have to up the price to make it worth my time like you have done, and not under cut your price point.

 

[scoutdad]

Grey Klingons!!!

Yay!!!! :lol:

 

[billclo]

I found a local place that will charge me $15 a square foot at a max 12'x12' for color decals, so my cost per template comes out to $0.42 for a 1.9" circle. Figure 36 per sq/ft. I know I can get this price reduced because I got a pretty good idea what local large print company this smaller company uses to outsource to.

Your "shameless plug" has been noted and has inspired me even before you said it, don't worry I don't plan on selling them to this group anytime soon or even at all, but maybe to my friends locally. Of course I would have to up the price to make it worth my time like you have done, and not under cut your price point.

Hey, I sell them as a hobby to fund my miniatures, not to make a living. I'm a capitalist though, and if you decide you want to make and sell stickers, go for it.

It does matter what you value your time at; even if you have the capability to design your own stickers (which I did not, which is why I paid someone to design the stickers for me), what is the ROI on time invested?

 

[Finlos]

Some well painted minis you have there. Would you be willing to tell us what colours you used?

 

[scuy]

Some well painted minis you have there. Would you be willing to tell us what colours you used?

Sure, in fact I wrote down the colors I used and the basic order of them. I used all Vallejo colors unless otherwise noted. Everything is brushed on, besides one little part I used a toothpick to apply red to that recessed part in the nose of the cruisers.

Klingon color chart
-------------------
Colors applied in this order
-------------------------------------
Grey Primer 74-601
London Grey 836 base color

Black Shade 73201
wash entire model

Londay Grey 836
dry brushing

Flat Yellow 953
engine

Light Green 942
accent lights

Brass 801
sensor array

Black Shade 73201
wash sensor array

Red 947
Reactor Grill and that recessed part in the nose of the cruisers

Flat Blue 70962
rear engine area

Asurmen Wash Citadel ink
used over engine (flat blue)

Before putting the Matt Varnish, I go over with dry brushing and washes and clean up anything I see at this point.

Matt Varnish 520
I put on one coat, let dry and put another coat or two.

 

[scuy]

I forgot to add, that when I dry brush it is mostly done in the common way of putting paint on the brush, then brushing a paper towel to get the moisture and reduce pigment off the brush.

Sometimes I will use another brush and paint a slightly wet paint (using a touch of water with paint) of the given color I was using for dry brushing on the miniature itself then using the dry brush to brush the wet paint out to blend. I like the effect it gives me. Sort of like wet blending colors, but that would require me to be painting quickly and not stop to take breaks. My hand/fingers gets tired and hurts from prolong holding of a brush due to arthritis, I figure I should just tape a paintbrush to my finger and call it a day.

Not sure how to explain this part, and I hope it comes across as clearly as I can think at this time. I use this method on the parts that I feel were harder to get to with my dry brush directly like the rear top section and the wing assembly areas that connect to the engine.

 

[Finlos]

Many thanks, now to find the nearest GW equivalent so I don't have to buy new paints.

 

[scuy]

Many thanks, now to find the nearest GW equivalent so I don't have to buy new paints.

I don't know if someone has a good chart on equivalent paints.
google search: vallejo and GW conversion chart

Most color charts are based on a color with a opacity of 100% (solid color). Different paints even in a given line will have different opacity characteristics.

There seems to be a few charts out there, how good they are, I am not sure because I haven't used the new GW paints and haven't used the older paint in a very long time.

You could do the same painting format as I, with any color you pick, but if your trying to copy the exact color outcome I came out with, it would depend on a number of factors not based on the exact colors I use. I like Vallejo paints. Easy to mix and thin down, I tend to paint in multiple layers, which helps not cover up details. If I use a paint that would cover in one go, it would destroy the detail I wish to keep on the miniature. Primer will affect a color on top of it, opacity of paint, washes, highlight, colors next to each other affect how the color looks like. Variations go on and on.

In my Klingon ships, the grey looks sort of blue.

 

[Iain McGhee]

Paint chart +, no GW on the list.

http://scalemodeldb.com/paint

GW conversion chart, seems to only cover their "new" range (Citadel have a new to old conversion chart on their webpage).

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart