Building question
- Thread starter bolive
- Start date
1) Cleaning - yes, a little soapy water and they should be good to go. Also use a hobby knife (metal) or sandpaper (resin) to remove the flashing.
2) Gluing - glue first. For the metals, I use super glue. Get the liquid and keep it in the freezer. An open tube lasts for years in the freezer. I don't know what to use for resin... though I suspect super glue would work there too. Just a little bit will do.
3) painting - here's what I do
a) priming - get a can of krylon spray paint (I like light gray, but white or dark gray works too)
b) build a spray box out of an old cardboard box (hit up the local home improvement stores for a dishwasher or oven box)
c) LIGHTLY spray the models (lots at once) making sure to get every surface. The paint should be dry by the time it hits the model. You DO NOT want the paint to run. Hold the can far away.
d) As far as the other paints... that all depends on what you like. I've used testors, GW/Citadel, and craft paint. I liked Citadel because of the wide variety of colors (I don't mix up my own colors well), and really, they aren't that pricey. The problem is that the paint pots tend to dry up. If you get tubes of acrylic paint from a craft store (or online like Dick Blick), then you can get tubes that won't dry out. Usually thinner paint works better for newer painters. I still prefer it.
e) When finished, coat with a spray on poly... I prefer a matte finish, but you might like high gloss.
4) Guides... this is a good one with equipment lists, and techniques http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_necessary_equipment.html
Hope that helps.
2) Gluing - glue first. For the metals, I use super glue. Get the liquid and keep it in the freezer. An open tube lasts for years in the freezer. I don't know what to use for resin... though I suspect super glue would work there too. Just a little bit will do.
3) painting - here's what I do
a) priming - get a can of krylon spray paint (I like light gray, but white or dark gray works too)
b) build a spray box out of an old cardboard box (hit up the local home improvement stores for a dishwasher or oven box)
c) LIGHTLY spray the models (lots at once) making sure to get every surface. The paint should be dry by the time it hits the model. You DO NOT want the paint to run. Hold the can far away.
d) As far as the other paints... that all depends on what you like. I've used testors, GW/Citadel, and craft paint. I liked Citadel because of the wide variety of colors (I don't mix up my own colors well), and really, they aren't that pricey. The problem is that the paint pots tend to dry up. If you get tubes of acrylic paint from a craft store (or online like Dick Blick), then you can get tubes that won't dry out. Usually thinner paint works better for newer painters. I still prefer it.
e) When finished, coat with a spray on poly... I prefer a matte finish, but you might like high gloss.
4) Guides... this is a good one with equipment lists, and techniques http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_necessary_equipment.html
Hope that helps.
OgreMkV said:
Vallejo is also worth checking out. Variety of colours is just ridiculous(HOW many shades of say green or red there IS in the world anyway?-), cheaper with more in bottles and lot better bottle system...
Problem with vallejo is that some colours don't cover that well. Been having particular trouble with dark green(one's that would be suitable for say dark angels in warhammer 40k).
PP's paints are also good I hear. And coat'd'arms which are basically what GW used to sell long time ago.
Myself I'm big fan of vallejo. a) I'm cheapskate so don't feel like paying GW extra b) their bottles own GW's big time.
1: As OgreMkV says, a quick wash with soapy water should do. And scraping off flash with a file or knife has always been part of assembling models.bolive said:
2: Generally glue, fill gaps where necessary, then paint, so that the ship does not appear to be on the verge of falling apart. Some parts may be easier to paint before they're glued on, though.
3: Personally I use a combination of Revell, Humbrol and Xtracolor, for the simple reason that those are what the local model shop stocks! The key point is to use acrylics rather than enamels. Acrylics dry a lot quicker so you can get on with the next colour, and you only need water to clean the brushes.
Very fine details can be done with fine marker pens.
Some people like to paint the ship overall black to start with, then paint over in the ship's real colour, leaving the inscribed panel lines black. Personally I prefer to paint the ship in its real colours, then apply a wash of thinned black ink. It's all a matter of taste - how heavily shaded do you want the model to be in the end?
