Advice on Modeling

Democratus

Mongoose
I've just started assembling my Primus. It has two holes in the bottom for a mount, neither of them in the middle.

Anyone care to share how they managed to mount this on a single stand?

Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds reasonable. I think I can do that.

Followup question. Most ships in the gallery look like they are on a much sturdier stand - do most people get their ship stands from somewhere else? If so, what are the good ones.

I don't want to have to do this twice to get it right. :)
 
Well with most of your models the plastic pegs will suffice, with your heavier ones like the Octurian and the Adira (which I believe are the only ones in the Centauri fleet that would require extra support) find yourself a mettle peg. Try posting for some mettle stands, maybe somebody is willing to part with one or two of these precious gems.
 
Like any model on plastic stands the problem coems when you (or your opponent) knocks them over and you have to re-drill it.

The very best solution seems to involve metal stands / pipes but the next best is the one I use - the Ninja magic stands which allow you to detach the ships from the stands when travelling. They are not perfect but when sometting breaks its usually the magnet attached to the ship which can be reglued.

for more info see here:

http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=39928
 
Da Boss said:
Like any model on plastic stands the problem coems when you (or your opponent) knocks them over and you have to re-drill it.

The very best solution seems to involve metal stands / pipes but the next best is the one I use - the Ninja magic stands which allow you to detach the ships from the stands when travelling. They are not perfect but when sometting breaks its usually the magnet attached to the ship which can be reglued.
Perhaps not quite as rigid but a lot cheaper are Mongoose's ball and socket flying bases. Again you can glue the socket to the model and have the stem and base removable for transport. The socket looks a bit clunky on a small ship such as a White Star but the stand will hold the weight of a moderately large ship such as a Victory.
 
i had heard these become very loose though, any comments on that, either way?
 
I haven't noticed the stem become very loose in the base. (Although I do have one stand where it's always been rather loose, I have to watch when I pick up the model because it often leaves the base behind!)

The ball is a very tight fit in the socket. If you want the model to be able to pivot, you need to do some careful filing or sanding on the ball - but if you overdo it, then it becomes too loose and the ship will always flop to one side. Heavier models such as the Victory are more liable to this, but then larger ships like that aren't known for their banking manoeuvres so I'm content to leave them with stiff joints. :)

The other problem is that the socket won't fit into some ships, e.g. between the fins of a Sharlin or the spines of a Shadow Scout. In these cases, I glued the stem into the model but left the base to be removable.
 
hiffano said:
i had heard these become very loose though, any comments on that, either way?

I expected this would be a problem and so I have only tried on one Hyperion so far. After six months it is still tight.

Second problem I have is that they are bulky looking on some ships, not the larger ones of course.
 
Even the metal stands have trouble with big brutes like the Corumai (the pin can bend and sometimes snaps off when you bend it back). Before the metal ones became available I used nails as replacement shafts (countersink the base and snip off the head) and still do for most of my larger ships. A number of players on here use brass rod.

With the ball and socket stands I glue the ball into the "hat" but don't glue in the shaft. That will stop the joint from becoming slack but still lets you remove the stand for transport and storage.
 
For the bigger ships such as the Primus I use 5mm diameter rare earth magnets in pairs - glue one to any flat area on the bottom of the ship near the middle, and the other to the stand - make sure you get the polarities right! The magnets are strong enough to hold the ship in place but it can be removed for transport etc.
 
I also use brass tube and have done long before CTA. I usually source from DIY centres, in the UK B&Q & Homebase. use 2mm diam tube for most ships but 4mm for Courami's & Adiras etc.

Alternatively the guys I buy the bits for my 3rd Space Cruiser, 4D modelshop, also sell brass rod & tube
 
Iain McGhee said:
Paisley Model Centre, up near Barshaw Park.

Thanks Iain, even closer than I thought. I commute around the back of the Hillington estate twice a day. Will need to drop in and give them the once over.
 
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