ACTA:SF Models - experience assembling the fiddly parts

[Billiam]

Let me preface in saying I'm an experienced miniature modeller who builds with the intent to assemble and paint a model once. To this end I pin many joints, add pins for support of fragile/bendable parts, set up jigs to hold the model while gluing, and use epoxy whenever I can. Now that I'm finally getting around to assembling my SF figs, some of the joints look problematic. The nacelles on the Klingon ships, while probably pin-able will be very tricky with little room for error with the thin wings. And many of the Fed ships, where the saucers meet the engineering neck, have saucers too thin to put a pin (though I guess I could go with a steep angle into the command bubble).

Are people assembling these things without pinning or extra support without trouble? Are the joints surviving trips bouncing back and forth from your gaming venue, in foam-lined travel cases? I'd like to get some experiences before I give them a go (like I said, I only want to assemble them once!)

 

[LimeyDragon]

Well, my demo kit and my personal fleet are not pinned in anyway. I do pack them in foam for transport. I use super glue and a quick set spray to build all mine. Only mishap i have had was me dropping the dreadnought. Know I would recommend to not glue my bases to the models. Either using the ball joint or some other fashion is best.

 

[scoutdad]

My early Starline 2500s were resin and I simply super-glued them together.
The later ones are resn and they get my usual "two-glue" treatment. A dab of superglue at each end of the joint (to set-up quickly) and a 2-part epoxy through the rest of the joint (for strength).

They've since been to a three day convention and several dozen games. No mishaps to date... except the D7 I dropped a can on. It kinda broke... but that has been the only casualty of war to date.

 

[Greg Smith]

I have had no problem with Federation saucer and neck joints with superglue plus accelerator. The nacelles are a PITA though.

 

[Ben2]

Nacelles I always dug out the sockets a little and sanded down the pylon ends that went in them so it was a snug fit. Then I dry fitted them, added a little blob of liquid green stuff and some superglue, stuck the pylon in and cleaned any spillage.

The nacelles on my first dreadnought I pinned in case I ever dropped it though.

 

[Iain McGhee]

My metal ones have the joins roughened slightly with a file and then are simply superglue'd together. Haven't had anything drop off yet through usage, transport or mishaps

Joints on the resin ones (all of my 18 Feds) are pretty strong just with superglueing too, only one that's ever shed bits was dropped 5' onto a concrete garage floor (and that was just the nacelles because I hadn't stuck them in too well in that particular model's case).

 

[Lincolnlog]

I have had so many problems with the Klingon Nacelles (no problems with the Feds other than keeping stable while they dry) that I'm condiering trying some solder under the wings to set for a permanent solution.

While trying to paint my Klingon's, I have spent more time regluing nacelles than painting. And every time you re-glue the worse it looks even if you clean up well before re-gluing.

Can't find the old model RR soldering iron, so going to have to invest if it works it will be well worth it.

Bob

 

[Billiam]

OK, thanks for your experiences.

 

[Darzoni]

I haven't had too many issues with newer versions, but I would definitely try to pin any nacelles to the body; I had issues with some of the Federation nacelles not having enough of a joining surface when I got my Fed fleet set. The Dreadnought and the Battlecruiser in the Reinforcements box seem to have grown metal tabs to shove into the secondary hull since that earlier experience though.

 

[Dagretto]

Hi,

I asked this question some time ago when I got my Romulan Fleet box, and went to assemble the K6R. My solution was to use some thin brass sheet to reinforce the inside joints, and then blended with some putty. I actually used some spare fret material from a photo-etch detail sheet (I'm also a 1/35 scale armor modeler), but I'm sure a local hobby store has some thin stock available...

Damon.