Recent content by Star Ranger

They are a bit crumbly but I have had no problem drilling them and then squirt in a bunch of glue and stick a stand in and you are done - thought I do like to wash them first, dry for days and then a couple coats of clear afterwards to keep them from making dust. The house I bought had some...

Very nice, the stickers are great and you have a very steady hand for painting the details though I would love to see them with a dark wash and a bit of drybrushing - that would really send them over the top.

In SVC's closing post he stated: I need to reply to that because size should not be the only difference. If just the D5 was on the table, can you tell if it is a D5 or a D7 quickly and easily? Sure if both are there you can tell that the larger one is the D7, but with just one ship and no...

FASA's designs were so detailed and accurate, they made the pylons too thin. Plus I think they were still using a lead based alloy at that time which did result in minis that would bend easier than the tin alloy minis that we see today that are less bendable and more brittle. Thus I don't...

The class names of the other original plastic miniatures are: Hawkwood Wayfarer class raiders Hawkwood Hornet class frigates Hawkwood Darius class galliots League Caravan class freighter League Sentry class escort The pics you have of the plastics are from me but those are the only ones I...

http://www.decalpaper.com/ is a common place people go for their decal paper in addition to MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/ I have never had problems with too thick decals from custom paper but then I use a decal solvent to help too. MicroSol and Solvaset and common products in better...

Interesting story on that one. When mounted normal with the 3 prongs going down so it looked a bit like Deep Space 9, it was a slow seller. When he mounted it on its side like the picture on Rattlehead's site, sales skyrocketed as now it looked cool.

Used to be? Ouch. Yeah, I am behind a bit on updates but I should get to some of them this weekend. Some old bits need some cleaning up too since the 10th anniversary of the site is coming up very soon. http://www.star-ranger.com/Minis.htm should get to to all the commercial lines of...

I use round wood disks from craft stores with a metal washer on the bottom to give them some weight and so I can store them in a box with magnetic tape on the bottom.

Already licensed to Ad Astra Games who have produced the Saganami Island Tactical Simulator along with miniatures and sourcebooks http://www.adastragames.com Actually those series of books were based on a campaign Weber ran in the game Starfire (which he wrote the 2nd edition of)...

I use brass tubing and barrel clasps with a similar method. http://www.star-ranger.com/BasingMinis.htm

After printing with an inkjet, you spray a fixative over the decal to prevent the ink from running when you wet it. http://www.decalgear.com/DG/Product.asp?ProdCode=62102-1

The Griffin decals were not printed on inkjet or laser printers, they were printed with an ALPS printer which uses a ribbon of dry waxy ink, which come in the basic colors plus special white ribbons are available along with silver, gold, etc. The ALPS printers have not been produced in years...

Did you go to their home page (which does say they are no longer selling) or did you check the the AOG store site which still says they are selling? http://www.agentsofgaming.com/oshop.htm

They are being used to make the masters for a several lines of minis and they can do great detail, but the resulting figure is still very fragile and it can take 8+ hours to 'print' a single mini. Thus they are useful to make the master for making a mold but are not economical for printing...