Technical Gear
Snow Shovels
Carry several shovels per party. Larger, sturdier types are essential. Avoid small lightweight shovels since they are worthless for moving large volumes of snow. The aluminum grain scoop (35 x 45cm) has proven to be indispensable. Shovels are used for digging in campsites, constructing snow caves, removing snow from around tents, and occasionally used for clearing the route after deep accumulations.
Take at least one 45 meter, 9mm water repellent rope per two people and a 45 meter spare for crevasse rescue. Use a 50 meter rope for three climbers. Fixed rope made of Polypropylene (solid core 9mm) should only be used on snow and ice. Static Perlon should be used over sharp ice and any rock for fixed line. All fixed rope must be removed upon your descent.
One ice axe per person is necessary, plus an extra per party (since they are easily lost in crevasse falls). Picks on ice Climbing tools are frequently broken on technical climbs. Tape the grip area on the head of the ice axe with closed cell foam and duct tape or hockey tape, this inhibits cold penetration to the hand.
Bring one pair of Crampons per person, that can be adjusted to be worn with or without Overboots. A small file is essential on technical routes.
Snow and Ice Anchors
Snow pickets of 2 to 3 foot length and/or snow flukes are essential for anyone traveling on glaciated terrain. The snow bollard or deadman anchors work well but require additional time to place. They may be the only anchors that will work in a variety of unconsolidated or slush snow conditions.
For year walker have found sticks or poles useful for taking some of the stress off the knees going up or down hills. Take two with you as it spreads the load more evenly and may help to avoid headache.
Repair Kit
Plan your kit around the equipment you carry, such as the stove, skis and tent. In addition, carry parachute cord, wire, duct tape, a screw driver for skis, patching material for your inflatable mattress and tent, and a sewing kit.
Mountaineering Full Packing List (minimize based on specific excursion)
Each party member should have the following items:
Essentials – Mini Maglite flashlight (spare bulb, spare batteries), Swiss Army climber knife, sunscreen, sunglasses, waterproof matches, fire starter, map, compass, whistle, first aid kit (see below), 5 large garbage bags, 5 ziplock sandwich bags, small emergency backup flashlight, pen, paper
First Aid Kit– Iodine tablets (+ flavoring mix like Kool-Aid)
Sustenance –
Water – 2L Platapus reservoir, 3L Camelbak reservoir, 1L Platapus bottle, 1L Nalgene bottle
Drinks – Instant hot chocolate, tea, Gatorade mix (dilute 1:1 water), Cryomax, Kool-aid/Lemonaide
Snacks – Balance bars (4/day), Powerbar Harvest, Gorp, Gummi Bears, beef/turkey jerkey, string cheese
Breakfast – Bagels, dry cereal, granola/breakfast bar
Lunch – Sandwiches
Dinner – Freeze dried/instant meals
Clothing –
Underwear – Non-cotton boxers/briefs; REI light wt. bottom, Columbia light wt. bottom, REI light wt. long sleeve top, Patagonia Capilene top, Columbia light wt. top, Timberland med. wt. turtleneck top, Nike Dri-fit short sleeve
Insulating – Marmot windstopper vest, REI Polartek 200 top, REI Polartek 300 vest, REI Polartek 200 pants
Outer – Marmot Gore-Tex jacket, REI Gore-Tex pants, REI nylon shorts, junk nylon glissade pants
Socks – sock liners (# days trip + 2 extra), Thorlo pile socks/wool socks (# days trip + 1 extra)
Footwear – Zamberlan leather boots, Tevas, gaiters, plastic boots, La Sportiva rock shoes, 5.10 Anasazi rock shoes
Gloves – glove liners, Marmot Gore-Tex gloves, fleece gloves, Pearl Izumi windstop gloves
Head – Wigwam pile hat, Fila poly hat, REI fleece hat, OR windstop balaclava, baseball cap, Petzl helmet, snow goggles, REI light wt. balaclava [maybe get: sleeping cap, bandana, headband]
Containers – Mountainsmith large pack, Dana Design summit pack, Mountainsmith daypack, Jansport small pack, stuff sacks, waterproof pack cover
Alpine climbing – Snow shovel, dynamic rope (50m), harness, ice axe, crampons, 4’ slings, 2’ slings, short/long prussiks, carabiners, snowshoes, wands, avalanche beacon, mountain locator unit, ATC belay device, Petzl headlamp (bulb, batteries)
Rock climbing – ATC belay device, Grigri belay device, harness, prussiks, quickdraws, 2’ slings, 4’ slings, carabiners
Misc. – camera, film, extra AA batteries, pack cover, trekking poles, cell phone, bug spray, 50’ accessory rope, Motorola Talk-About
Car gear – (to be left in car) Travel shoes, extra food/water, Freedom of the Hills book
The following gear can be shared among the entire party:
Navigation – GPS, altimeter watch, guidebook
Cookware – stove, fuel, fuel bottle, water purifier (filter from freezer), cook set (1-2 pots, 1 lid, handle, cleaning pad), plastic bowl/plate, plastic knife/fork/spoon, plastic drinking mug
Overnight – REI down sleeping bag, green down sleeping bag, thermarest, thermarest chair, toilet paper, tent (poles, rain fly, ground cover, attic), toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, ear plugs, eye cover
Plus check out these websites
http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/~alpine/wiki/Packing_List
http://www.steliasguides.com/pdf/mountaineering_equ.pdf
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain-climbing-gear-list/226025
http://www.montanamountaineering.org/docs/mountaineeringcontinuumgearlist.pdf
Some of the material is redundant to what you have already listed, I just included it to be complete
Dave Chase
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