Need help stripping models

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Mage
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Need help stripping models

Postby Mage » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:15 pm

Hello all.
I was wondering if anybody new a good way of getting plastic miniatures stripped quickly and efficiently?
A friend of mine who I have been out of touch with told me using a certain type of motor oil and certain type of bursh works great. If anyone can tell me this information or has any other good, cheap, safe method of doing so also, please let me know.

Thanks in advance!
eek
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Postby eek » Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:50 pm

I hear Simple Green is good, but I think that's an American brand. I think I read somewhere that Dettol is our equivalent to that, but not 100% certain.

Acetone-free (VERY important to remember this) Nail Polish Remover works reasonably well. I've tried it and it doesn't deface the plastic, but it doesn't quite come out perfect either. Best to get a small bottle to test.

Both methods require dipping them for a certain length of time.
Boomer
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Postby Boomer » Wed Jan 16, 2008 3:43 am

Yes I used Simple Green to strip the paint off my IJN Yamato battleship model (I found the correct IJN grey after I already airbrushed it with the wrong color...uggghhhh!) ...It does work but I had to soak the pieces for like a week and then scrubbed the hard to get places with a toothbrush...there were a few residual spots but Simple Green did not hurt the plastic at all...Simple Green will also loosen super glue but not entirely...but usually enuf to break pieces away from each other...but be careful...

FYI: stripping pewter is much easier...throw some laquer thinner in a pickle jar and soak the pieces over night...will strip the paint off almost entirely and will break up and soften up any super glue too (youll have to dig it out some) which allows you basically to start from scrtach almost as tho the model just came out of the package...well almost...

Boomer 8)
BuShips
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Postby BuShips » Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:34 am

Besides Simple Green, I've heard that brake fluid works well. Soaking for too long could soften plastic though and then there is more clean up before it can be repainted again. I'd try the Simple Green method first.
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ekwatts
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Postby ekwatts » Wed Jan 16, 2008 9:25 am

Dettol.

It works, and I'm guessing if I can buy it in Manchester, you can get it in Ireland. Pesky Americans recommending American brands!
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Postby Blu_Majik » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:09 am

Nitromors out the B&Q, buy some gloves though, it'll take the your fingers down to the bone too.

edit - i just noticed you said plastic, this might not be a good idea.
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Postby Shadow Queen » Wed Jan 16, 2008 2:51 pm

Blu_Majik wrote:Nitromors out the B&Q, buy some gloves though, it'll take the your fingers down to the bone too.

edit - i just noticed you said plastic, this might not be a good idea.
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Pietia
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Postby Pietia » Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:01 pm

For plastic and resin minis use the oil used in brake system - e.g. DOTT-3. The less expensive ones are better for this purpose.
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Silverback
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Postby Silverback » Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:26 pm

I've used Mr Muscle oven cleaner on resin models and also caustic soda on metals - though I don't see why it shouldn't work on plastic too!
ekwatts
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Postby ekwatts » Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:42 pm

I'm sticking to my endorsement of Dettol. It works, and it's relatively safe.
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Postby Silverback » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:53 pm

ekwatts wrote:I'm sticking to my endorsement of Dettol. It works, and it's relatively safe.
And also soothes all those Dremel inflicted wounds too!?

EDIT: Just bought a bottle of Dettol to try this out. How long does it usually take?
Silverback
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Postby Silverback » Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:24 pm

Tried Dettol and it works better than either caustic soda or oven cleaner! For those not in the UK the chemical name for it is parachlorometaxylenol (PCMX for short) and is a disinfectant.
ekwatts
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Postby ekwatts » Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:54 pm

I think the key ingredient is the pine oil. Any cheap brand of Dettol works too, I use a Tesco brand for stripping my plastic models. It's not nearly as fast-acting as acetone is on metal models, but that's fine. Plus, it usually leaves glue intact, so you can strip multipart glued models easily without having to reassemble them.
Silverback
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Postby Silverback » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:17 pm

Dettol also softens Milliput!
ekwatts
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Postby ekwatts » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:21 pm

*edit*
Last edited by ekwatts on Sat Jul 11, 2015 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
juggler69uk
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Postby juggler69uk » Sun Mar 09, 2008 12:41 pm

ekwatts wrote:
Silverback wrote:Dettol also softens Milliput!
Ah, does it? I'm sure Green Stuff is unaffected by it, but I'm not sure.

Sure but not sure eh :lol: only jk no offence intended
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alma
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the best way to clean plastic miniatures that I have found

Postby alma » Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:40 pm

Hello all :)

I have tried all of the following to clean the paint form plastic miniatures:

Brake fluid
simple green
acetone / superglue solvent
pinesol
isoprpyl rubbing alcohol 91% ( not the regular rubbing alcohol )
mineral spirits
fingernail polish remover
an ultrasonic bath/cleaner

I have to say that I was disappointed by all off the above and had given up for awhile on any miniature gamming.

That is until I went into a local hobbyshop that specialised in model railroads/cars and airplanes.

In there I found a wonderful "Plastic safe model paint stripper" made by a company named Chameleon ( www.chameleonproductsonline.com ).

I put a couple of gamesworkshop 40k space ork gretchin miniatures in an empty plastic prescription pill bottle and covered them up with this stuff and let it set for about 4 hours. I then took them out and used a regular soft toothbrush and was able to strip the paint from them as good as any of the above products ( except for the supper glue solvent which ruins figures ) . There was a little residue in some of the cracks but a second bath overnight and scrubbing made them come out pristine clean.

In my eagerness to try to get as many miniatures done as quickly as possible I then went and bought the large 16 oz ( 470 ml ) size and poured it into the ultrasonic cleaner instead of water. I then placed 15 wahammer 40K ork goffs figures in the solution and kept reactivating the cleam cycle until the solution had become not quite hot but more then luke warm . Once this was done I was able to start brushing them off and was able to clean most of the 15 to pristine in the first time through . a second time through for the others had them cleaned to pristine as well.

As a side note, there is one thing to consider. You may have the best cleaner but one of the limiting factors in how clean you can get you miniatures depends a lot on the brush you are using. You will need to find a brush that has bristles whose individual thickness is small enough to get into all the crooks and crevaces or you wont be able to get all of the details cleaned.It will also need to be the right blend of stiffness to force out the paint while have enough give to flow along the miniature.

I also last night used the ultrasonic cleaner/chameleon bath on 15 gretchin models. While cleaning them I would start on the back and by the time I got to the front I could just pull the entire paint job off in one piece !!! ( it was coming off in such large peices that at the end I had to gather them up and flush them down the toilet because they have covered up the gap between the push up sink plunger and the sink drain LOL )

For the chamelon "liquid" it was $10.00 us for a 8oz ( 240 ml ) bottle and $20.00 for a 16 oz ( 470ml ) bottle. I have recyled the cleaning solution ( only topping off due to loss ) at least 3 times for the large bottle in the ultrasonic cleaner and 6 times for the small bottle in the pill bottle .

Sorry to have taken so long with the post but I need to explain the BEST way I have found to clean paint from plastic models. This way is a little more expensive then the others but well worth it. I have gone from quiting the hoby to now looking for cheap auctions on ebay knowing that I can repaint any miniature now :)

Oh by the way the label says "Non-Caustic, Water soluble, Biodegradable and RE-USEABLE! "

I realise that this is an american product but you may be able to find out what it is made from and see if their is a more local manufacturer if you cant get you local shop to order it in for you.
BuShips
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Postby BuShips » Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:53 pm

Thank you alma for offering that up. I'm sure that anyone reading your reply will at least take a look at that product when they need to do some model stripping. Thanks again!
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warhammergrimace
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Postby warhammergrimace » Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:33 pm

Flash Power Spray works really well, it even strips wood paint from skirting boards. It's really good for stripping paint from plastic minis.

Just liberally coat the mini in the spray and leave to soak for anywhere between 10-20 miniutes, the use a stiff brush under the tap to scrubb the paint off.

I've not tried it on resin, but have been told it works well without damaging the resin, though you have to be more delicate with the scrubbing off.
Somebody
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Postby Somebody » Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:12 pm

For acrylic paints (Valleyo/Andrea/Tamiya) classic oven cleaner works great. The less "green" the better. Put the model(s) in a plastic bag, cover with the spray(it foams up), close bag, leave over night. Next day rinse the model of with (warm) water.

Warning: Certain types of glues are affected so make sure to cover the sink with a fine cloth/netting to catch parts dropping of

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